[Series: Following the narrow path to the back of the mountain ⑥] Go down the Mogami River and visit the Dewa Sanzan, one of Japan's three major Shugendo practices

Previous article: [Serial: Following the narrow path in the back of the mountain ⑤] After struggling with the narrow path through the mountain pass and the difficult checkpoints, we headed to Dewa Province

On May 28, 1689 (7/14 of the new calendar), Matsuo Basho and Kawai Sora returned from Yamadera (Tateishokuji) to Obanazawa and moved to Takano, which was located in the neighboring Oishida town. I will be staying at Ichiei's house.

We stayed here for three days, the purpose of which was to wait for the weather to improve, but while we were resting, we held a haiku meeting with local haiku poets.

After Basho and his friends moved to Shinjo and enjoyed a boat trip down the Mogami River, they visited the three Dewa mountains: Mt. Haguro, Mt. Gassan, and Mt. Yudono.

What is Oku no Hosomichi?

``Oku no Hosomichi'' is a journey in which the haiku poet Matsuo Basho and his disciple Kawai Sora travel from Edo to Mutsu, from Hokuriku to Ogaki in Gifu, visiting Utamakura and famous historical sites while composing haiku. This is a collection of travelogues.

Utamakura refers to famous historical sites whose images and emotions were woven into waka poems by poets from ancient capitals, and were the object of admiration for poets and haiku poets.

In the preface, Months and days are travelers for a hundred generations, and every year that comes and goes is also a traveler'' . It appears in textbooks and is translated as "It's like a traveler."

It introduces the climate of Michinoku and the haiku poems that were composed there, and is a record of the 156-day journey of approximately 2,400 km from its departure on March 27, 1689 (May 16, 1689).

[Oishida/Shinjo] Enjoy a warm welcome from a local haiku poet and experience the rapids of Mogami River

Haikai was popular in Oishida, and the local haiku poets, who were delighted with Basho's visit, held a haiku meeting to comfort Basho, and the famous Mogami River haiku was born from the renga there.

In between the haiku gatherings, Basho and his friends visited the nearby Kosenji Temple at the recommendation of local people, and then headed to Shinjo City and stayed at Jinbei's house in Shibuya for two nights.

Then, enjoy a trip down the river from the pier at Motoaikai, where the Mogami River and Nitta River converge, get off the boat at Kiyokawa in Shonai, and walk to Mt. Haguro to Inkyojo. I will stay for consecutive nights until the 9th.

The Mogami River (Basho) collects the May rain quickly

At first glance, this phrase has an unremarkable meaning, ``The rain during the rainy season gathers in the Mogami River, forming a rapid flow,'' but what is noteworthy is that Basho and his friends went down this swollen rapid in a boat. It is in the fact that

The text says, ``The amount of water was so high that the boat almost capsized many times,''

This haiku was actually recited at a haiku gathering in Oishida, and was originally ``the Mogami River, which collects the rain in May and cools down .'' Perhaps the rapids of the river left a deep impression on the river, and it was ``gathered quickly.'' ”​

Yamukai-tate and the place where Basho boarded the ship <Information>

• Facility name: Yamuki Tate and the place where Basho boarded the ship
• Location: Hongoumi, Shinjo City, Yamagata Prefecture
• Phone number: 0233-29-5848 (Shinjo City Hall, Commerce, Industry and Tourism Division, Tourism Exchange Office)
• URL: Shinjo City Official Website (Commerce and Tourism Division）

Google Map

[Mt. Haguro] Visiting Dewa Sanzan, one of the main purposes of the trip

On June 3rd (7/19), I climbed Mt. Haguro and was introduced to Sakichi Kondo (Zushi), a central figure in the Shonai Haguro haiku circle, to Egaku Ajari, the Betto (General Manager). (Ajari: a high priest).

To express my gratitude for spending six nights at Nankokuin's residence (betsuin) (stayed at Gassan on the 6th of Chunichi), I wrote the following poem at a haiku event held at Honbo.

Thank you and the snow, Minamitani (Basho)

It means, ``The cool wind blowing through the remaining snow on the mountain is blowing in the south valley where I am, and it matches the atmosphere of the sacred Mt. Haguro, so I'm very grateful.''

It is said that Basho was very fond of the branch temple in Minamikoku that was arranged by the current Aigakubetsudai, and it was a blissful week for the last seven days, during which he enjoyed a pilgrimage to the three mountains of Dewa, which was one of his long-cherished wishes, and haiku. Sho.

Dewa Sanzan, one of Japan's leading reincarnation power spots

are believed to represent the present, past, and future, with Mt. Haguro representing the present, Mt. Gassan representing the past, and Mt. Yudono representing the future

The journey around these three mountains a ``journey of reincarnation'' may have something in common with the worldview of ``the impermanence of all things'' that Basho realized at Iizaka Onsen in Fukushima, where he fell ill .

The usual route to visit these three mountains is to start at Mt. Haguro in the present world, then look back at the past at Mt. Gassan, and finally reborn at Mt. Yudono in the future.

Basho and his friends also visited Yudonoyama Shrine on the 5th, climbed Mt. Gassan on the 6th, visited Gassan Shrine, stayed at a mountain hut, and concluded the trip at Yudonoyama Shrine on the 7th.

Basho and Sora then returned to Nankoku's branch temple and were asked for haiku by Aigaku Ajari, so Basho wrote three haiku for each of the three mountains on strips of paper and presented them to him.

The coolness of Mt. Haguro for only three months (Basho)

The meaning is ``A faint crescent moon hangs over the cool edge of Mt. Haguro.''

The poem depicts how Basho, who arrived at Mt. Haguro on the 3rd, walked the dark approach to Nankoku Betsuin with only moonlight, and it is said to represent the sacred place of Mt. Haguro, which is cooler than the lower world and is filled with spiritual energy. I am.

How many peaks of clouds have collapsed? Mountains of the Moon (Basho)

It is thought to mean, ``The mountain clouds, which looked like peaks in the sky, were building up and then falling apart, forming the beautiful Mt. Gassan that was illuminated by the moon.''

It is thought that Basho composed this poem while looking up at Mt. Gassan from the base of the mountain, rather than from the summit.

Unspoken - Is it wet in the bath? (Basho)

It is interpreted to mean, ``The nobility of Mt. Yudono, where we are not allowed to talk about the place, brings tears to our eyes and wets our sleeves.''

Mt. Yudono is a sacred place where you are not allowed to talk about it to others, and it reflects Basho's feelings that being able to see the place moved him to tears.

Yudonoyama (Sora)

This haiku means, ``There are coins scattered on the approach to Mt. Yudono, and as I stepped on the many coins as I made the pilgrimage, I cried tears of gratitude.''

It is said that at the time, people were not allowed to leave offering boxes on Mt. Yudono, which was worshiped as a mountain, and there was a rule that people were not allowed to pick up things that had fallen, so offerings were left lying on the roads.

Tohoku Rokken trivia media: NEFT

Related article

Rokujurikoshi Kaido, which passes through the foot of Mt. Yudono, is a road to visit the Dewa Sanzan.

https://jp.neft.asia/archives/20422

``Rokujuri Goe Kaido'' is a road on the Ushu Kaido road that runs from Yamagata to Tsuruoka, passing over several passes at the foot of the Dewa Sanzan. It is said that this is why it came to be called ``Rokujyurigoe Highway.'' "Rokujyurikoshi Kaido" seen from Mt. Yudono ©Asahimura It is not clear when "Rokujyurikoshi Kaido" started to be used, but it is said that Mt. Haguro, one of the three Dewa mountains, was In 593, Dainichibo of the main temple of Mt. Yudono was founded by Kobo Daishi in 807, so it seems to have been in use around that time. Two Shonai districts in the late Edo period...

Read related articles

Dewa Sanzan Shrine <Information>

• Facility name: Dewa Sanzan Shrine (Haguroyama Shrine, Gassan Shrine, Yudonoyama Shrine)
• Address: 33, Tamukahaguroyama, Haguro-cho, Tsuruoka-shi, Yamagata Prefecture
• Phone number: 0235-62-2355 (Haguroyama Shrine)
• URL: Dewa Sanzan Shrine official website  

Google Map

[Detour to the back ⑥] Farewell to Sora in Hokuriku

The Oku-no-Hosomichi continues from Yamagata Prefecture through Hokuriku until it reaches Ogaki City, Gifu Prefecture , but Sora, who had been accompanying him on the journey, suffers an upset stomach and becomes seriously ill during the journey.

As a result, Sora had to visit his relatives in Nagashima, Ise Province (Mie Prefecture), for recuperation, and had a sad farewell at Yamanaka Onsen in Kaga City, Ishikawa Prefecture.

However, when Basho safely arrives at the goal of Ogaki, Sora appears to be in good health and the two resume their pursuit.

summary

The chapter on Dewa Sanzan in Oku-no-Hosomichi is a little different from the other chapters, and is said to be a very detailed description of these three mountains known for Shugendo, and the poems he left behind have also received high acclaim. .

After Basho and Sora went down the Mogami River and paid a visit to the Dewa Sanzan, they headed towards the Shonai region on the Sea of ​​Japan side of Yamagata Prefecture, aiming for their final destination in Mutsu, Nōgata in Akita Prefecture.

Next article: [Serial: Following the narrow path in the back of the valley ⑦] The journey is finally coming to an end, from Dewa to Uzen and then to Hokuriku