[Serialization: Following the narrow path of the depths ①] Your trip to Tohoku begins with “crossing the Shirakawa barrier”

In the Edo period, when there were no airplanes, bullet trains, or automobiles, traveling on foot was the norm, and it was a life-threatening journey that was fraught with great hardship.(basho)

Matsuo Basho not only traveled on foot in Tohoku during this period, but also left behind his travelogue along with his haiku poems for future generations.

Even today, it is so highly regarded that it is included in school textbooks, and you have probably all come across famous prefaces and haiku at least once.

Here, we will follow the footprints that Basho left in the Tohoku region, and introduce seven articles about the current state of the places he visited and the haiku poems published in "Oku no Hosomichi."


What is Oku no Hosomichi?

Basho and Sora From the Tohoku Tourism Promotion Organization official website

``Oku no Hosomichi'' is a collection of travelogues in which the haiku poet Matsuo Basho traveled on foot with his disciple Kawai Sora from Edo to Michinoku, and from Hokuriku to Ogaki in Gifu while reciting haiku.

The preface , ``Months and days are travelers for a hundred generations, and every year that comes and goes is also a traveler'' is ``Months and days are travelers who continue on an eternal journey, and the years they leave and the years they come are the same.'' It appears in textbooks and is translated as "It's like a traveler."

It introduces the climate of Michinoku and the haiku poems that were composed there, and a record of the 156-day journey of approximately 2,400 km from the start of the journey on March 27, 1689 (May 16, 1689 according to the current calendar) .


[Shirakawa] Cross the Shirakawa barrier and enter Michinoku

From Shirakawa City official Facebook

On April 20th (June 7th), 2nd year of Genroku, the two of them fulfilled one of Basho's long-cherished wishes ``crossing the Shirakawa barrier.' ' I stepped in.

They seem to have thought that the ``Sakyo no Myojin'' on the old Oshu Highway (currently National Route 294) was the ``Shirakawa Seki'', but that was not the case; the true checkpoint site was located 2 ri (8km) further east. ) find out that it is located in a remote location.

We then moved to a post station called Hatajuku near the Sekisho Ruins, stayed the night, and visited the Sekisho Ruins the next day.


I wonder if it's Seki's best day while holding up the Unohana flower (Sora)

This means, ``Let's cross this barrier by using the blooming Unohana as a hair ornament and instead of a crown or clothes.''

It is said that in the past, there were strict interrogations at checkpoints, and travelers would head there in formal attire, including wearing a crown.

Although the Sora of today do not have crowns or special clothes, it is said that they at least wear Unohana as a hair accessory instead of a special clothes, and that it symbolizes their desire to cross the checkpoint.


Why didn't Basho compose haiku at Shirakawa Seki?

Although one of the major objectives was the Shirakawa Seki, Basho did not compose any haiku here, and only this haiku composed by Sora is included.

As for the reason for this, Tokyu Sagara, an acquaintance who provided him with accommodation in Sukagawa, asked Basho, ``What kind of haiku did you compose at Shirakawa no Seki?''

Basho is said to have replied ``I was so moved by the scenery that I couldn't compose any poems because I was tired from traveling.''

Shirakawa Seki Remains <Information>

  • Facility name: Shirakawa Seki Ruins
  • Location: Shirakawa no Seki, Hatajuku Sekinomori, Shirakawa City, Fukushima Prefecture
  • Phone number: 0248-32-2921 (Shirakawa Sekinomori Park Administration Building)
  • Business hours: 9:00-17:00 (until 16:00 from November to March)
  • Closed: Year-end and New Year holidays, 2nd Wednesday of every month (December to March only)
  • URL: Shirakawa City Tourism Division Official Website

Google Map


[Sukagawa] 7 consecutive nights of haiku at a haiku friend’s house

Kashinan Ruins From the official website of the Sukagawa City Tourism and Products Promotion Association

After leaving the Shirakawa Seki Ruins, Basho and his friends stayed overnight in Yabuki, Kagami-numa known for the Azuma Mirror , and then on April 22nd (June 9th), they returned to Yabuki, a large post town on the Oshu Kaido. I arrived at Sukagawa

here for seven consecutive nights, enjoying haiku poetry at the residence of his old friend and fellow haiku poet Tomoki , who was also the stationmaster of Sukagawa-juku.There are traces of Basho's time here left in various parts of present-day Sukagawa City.

Among them, the ``Furyu no Hajime Museum'' recommended as it has a variety of materials.

Furyu no Hajimekan <Information>

  • Facility name: Furyu no Hajime Hall (Motosukagawa City Basho Memorial Hall)
  • Address: 81-4 Honmachi, Sukagawa City, Fukushima Prefecture
  • Phone number: 0248-72-1212
  • Business hours: 9:00-17:00 (Rental rooms 9:00-22:00, Sundays and holidays 9:00-20:00)
  • Closed: Tuesdays (if Tuesday is a holiday, the next weekday), year-end and New Year holidays
  • URL: Furyu no Hajimekan official website

Google Map


The beginning of elegance and the rice-planting song (Basho)

This means that ``Oshu Road beyond the Shirakawa Seki is rice planting time, and the rice planting songs sung by the people have a deep rural atmosphere, and are suitable as the first step to experiencing the elegance of Michinoku.'' Basho's first work was in Michinoku. a poem I wrote .

It is said that Basho, who did not compose a haiku at the Shirakawa Seki, wrote this haiku about the rice planting that was taking place along the way, both for his old friend Tomomi, who he had not seen in a long time, and as a commemoration of crossing the seki.


Flowers and chestnuts in the eaves that people in the world don't find (Basho)

It is said that the meaning behind this flower is that ``chestnut flowers that bloom on the eaves of hermitages are a simple flower that the people of the world do not take notice of, and they represent the personality of the owner of the hermitage and have a deep meaning.''

Chestnut Stone Monument at the Eaves of Kashin-an Ruins From the official website of the Sukagawa City Tourism and Products Promotion Association

Basho had heard rumors of a monk named Kashin who built a hermitage in the shade of a chestnut tree near Toman's house and lived a reclusive life, and when Basho visited him, he was struck by the fact that his life was similar to that of his beloved monk Saigyo. I frequented Tare-an.

Basho haiku monument Sukagawa Keshinan site <Information>

  • Facility name: Basho haiku monument Sukagawa Kashinan ruins
  • Location: 61 Honmachi, Sukagawa City, Fukushima Prefecture

Google Map


[Mt. Asaka] [Shinobu no Sato] Head north along Nakadori towards Fukushima City

Bunchizuri Kannon (Mojizuri Kannon) From the official website of the Fukushima City Tourism and Convention Association

On April 29th (June 16th), we stayed in Koriyama and energetically visited places such as Kurozuka no Iwaya, which , and Otsujigataki Falls on the Abukuma River. While walking north.

Then, on May 1st (June 18th), we will arrive in Fukushima City, the current capital of Fukushima Prefecture, and spend one night there.

The next day, at dawn, we visited the ``Mojizuri Kannon'' in Nishinobu-no-Sato (present-day Yamaguchi, Fukushima City) -no-Ishi'' (Bunchi -zuri Kannon , which is famous as a love song pillow. )" I saw.

However, at that time, Bunchi Suriseki was said to be half buried in the ground, and although Basho was disappointed in his heart, he gathered himself and composed the following haiku.

Toru Sanae Hands and Old Times Shinobu Printing (Basho)

``It was a long time ago that Shinobu-zuri was held in this area of ​​Shinobu, and you can no longer see it, but at least you can remember the past by watching Saotome's hand movements as she takes the seedlings.'' It means "Let's hit it."

Shinobu-zuri stone (Bunchi-zuri stone) From the official website of the Fukushima City Tourism and Convention Association

Bunchizuri Kannon<Information>

  • Facility name: Fumon-in Bunchizuri Kannon (Mojizuri Kannon)
  • Address: 70 Bunchizuri-mae, Yamaguchi, Fukushima City, Fukushima Prefecture
  • Phone number: 024-535-1471
  • Visiting hours: 8:30-16:00
  • URL: Soto sect Kozawayama Ando-in official website

Google Map


[Senauejuku, Sato Shoji is a historic site] [Iizuka] From Nobuo no Sato to Iizaka Onsen

Iizaka Onsen Community Bath Sabakoyu From the official website of the Fukushima Prefecture Tourism and Products Exchange Association

It is said that from Bunchizuri Kannon, the two took a hot spring bath at Sabako-yu in Iizuka (Iizaka Onsen) chronic "That's what happened," he grumbles.

Iizaka Onsen Sabakoyu<Information>

  • Facility name: Iizaka Onsen Public Bath Sabakoyu
  • Location: 32 Yuzawa, Iizaka-cho, Fukushima City, Fukushima Prefecture
  • Phone number: 024-542-5223
  • Business hours: 6:00-22:00
  • Closed: Monday
  • URL: Iizaka Onsen Public Bath Official Website

Google Map


However, he regained his composure and departed from Iizaka, and on his way there he met Motoharu Sato, also known as ``Shoji Nobuo,'' the father of the brothers Tsugunobu and Tadanobu, a vassal of Minamoto no Yoshitsune. ) visited the ruins of the mansion.

When Basho learned that Yoshitsune's long sword, the box that Benkei carried on his back, was kept as a temple treasure at Io-ji, the Sato family temple, he was moved and composed a poem.

Both the koji and the sword are decorated in May. Paper banners (Basho)

The meaning is, ``Yoshitsune's sword and Benkei's torch would be a good idea to display along with paper banners during Boys' Festival, and the relics of Yoshitsune and Benkei, who were remembered for their bravery, are perfect for Boys' Festival.''

Ioji Temple From the official website of the Fukushima Prefecture Tourism and Products Exchange Association

This poem, in which the first five characters are overflowing, expresses the pity of Yoshitsune and Benkei as they approach Hiraizumi, one of the goals of this journey.

Iouji Temple<Information>

  • Facility name: Rurikozan Ioji Temple
  • Location: 45 Hiranoderamae, Iizaka-cho, Fukushima City, Fukushima Prefecture
  • Phone number: 024-542-3797
  • Visiting hours: 8:30-17:00
  • URL: Rurikozan Ioji Temple official website

Google Map


Oku no Hosomichi ①] What is the origin of the title Oku no Hosomichi?

Furyu no Hajime Hall (Motosukagawa City Basho Memorial Hall) From the official website of Tohoku Tourism Promotion Organization

``Oku-no-Hosomichi'' is also written as ``Oku-no-hosomichi'' in hiragana, and ``Oku'' refers to ``Michinoku'' or ``Tohoku region.''

Hosomichi literally means a long, narrow path that is unreliable, and it is said that Basho thought that the path of haikai was also long and narrow.

It is also said that he was conscious of the Utamakura ``Ivy Road'' in Azumakudari, or that he was impressed by the quaint road he saw in Sendai that was called ``Oku-no-Hosomichi''. I am.


summary

Basho traveled from Shirakawa City to Fukushima City and Fukushima Prefecture Nakadori, spending seven consecutive nights in Sukagawa before continuing his carefree journey, unconstrained by time, covering approximately 50km from Koriyama to Fukushima in one day. Masu.

Basho and Sora departed from Iizaka Onsen on May 3rd (6/20) and headed north, entering Miyagi Prefecture from Fukushima Prefecture on the same day and visiting Matsushima I'm heading to.


Next article: [Serial: Following the narrow path in the back part 2] Basho and Sora, who entered Miyagi Prefecture, aim for the forest capital of Sendai


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