[Serialization: Following the narrow path of the depths ③] After leaving Sendai, Basho and Sora arrive at Matsushima by boat from Shiogama.


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Matsuo Basho departed from Fukagawa, Edo on March 27, 1689 (5/16 in the new calendar), and his disciple Kawai Sora departed on May 4 (6/16 in the new calendar). 20) Arrived in Sendai.

We stayed in the castle town of the Sendai domain, which had a capital of 620,000 koku, for 4 nights and 5 days, visiting Utamakura and famous historical sites in the city.On May 8th (June 24th), we headed to our next destination, Shiogama. We then proceed to Matsushima, one of Basho's long-cherished poems.


What is Oku no Hosomichi?

``Oku no Hosomichi'' is a journey in which the haiku poet Matsuo Basho and his disciple Kawai Sora travel from Edo to Mutsu, from Hokuriku to Ogaki in Gifu, visiting Utamakura and famous historical sites while composing haiku. This is a collection of travelogues.

Utamakura refers to famous historical sites whose images and emotions were woven into waka poems by poets from ancient capitals, and were the object of admiration for poets and haiku poets.

The preface says, ``Months and days are travelers for a hundred generations, and every year that comes and goes is also a traveler.'' ``Months and days are travelers on an eternal journey, and the years that pass and the years that come are the same.'' It appears in textbooks and is translated as "It's like a traveler."

It introduces the climate of Michinoku and the haiku poems that were composed there, and is a record of the 156-day journey of approximately 2,400 km from the start of the journey on March 27, 1689 (May 16, 1689 according to the current calendar).


Is it true that Sendai has the original “Oku no Hosomichi”?

Tokoji Temple Stone Monument From Miyagi Digital Photo Library

Before Basho and his friends arrive at Taga Castle, they cross Imaichi Bridge, which is located upstream of Iwakita Ohashi Bridge on the Nanakita River that flows north of Sendai, and visit Tokoji Temple.

There is a Suga no Sato near this temple, and the suga from this place was of good quality as a material for making hats and straw hats, and was featured in a poem called ``Tofu no Suga.''

The road in this area during the Edo period was so atmospheric that the Sendai haiku poet Oyodo Sanchifu named it ` `Oku no Hosomichi,'' and it is said that Basho, who remembered this name, cited it in his travelogue. It is said.

In front of the current Sanmon Gate of Tokoji Temple, there is a magnificent stone monument with the inscription ``Oku no Hosomichi''

Tokoji Temple<Information>

  • Facility name: Tokoji Temple
  • Location: 22 Iwakiri Iriyama, Miyagino Ward, Sendai City, Miyagi Prefecture
  • Phone number: 022-255-8906
  • URL: Tokoji Temple official website

Google Map


[Tagajo] Tears fall on a stone monument written about the ancient capital

Cave with a pot monument From Miyagi Digital Photo Library

Taga Castle, built in 724, flourished as the capital of Mutsu Province and the cultural, political, and military base of Mutsu until the mid-11th century.

The Tsubono Isibumi is an old monument built in the Nara period (around the 8th century). It records the history of Taga Castle, the surrounding area at the time, Heijo-kyo, etc., and is used as a poem pillow in many waka poems. It was being sung.

Basho, standing in front of this monument, wrote, ``I was moved to tears by this stone monument, which remains unchanged even after a thousand years.''

Tagajo Monument (Vase Monument) <Information>

  • Facility name: Tagajo monument (pot monument/tsubonoishibumi)
  • Location: Taga Castle Ruins, 16 Kawadayaba, Tagajo City, Miyagi Prefecture
  • Phone number: 022-364-5901 (Tagajo City Tourism Association Secretariat)
  • URL: Tagajo City Tourism Association Official Website

Google Map


[End of Matsuyama] From Sendai to Shiogama is a treasure trove of song pillows

The image does not have an alt attribute specified. File name: 4e256563df5c948c2c3254285e20554a.jpg
From the official website of Sue no Matsuyama Tagajo City

On the way from Sendai to Shiogama, we make detours to famous song pillows such as Sue no Matsuyama, Noda no Tamagawa, and Okinoi

Matsuyama, located on the mountain behind Hokokuji Temple, was not submerged even in the great tsunami of the past, so it became famous as ``the place where waves never cross,'' and it is a song pillow that expresses undying love.

You can feel the ephemeral atmosphere of the two pine trees standing close to each other, as if a man and a woman are close to each other.

Okinoishi (Okinoi) From Miyagi Digital Photo Library

Okinoishi, located at the foot of Matsuyama at the end of the mountain, is located in a residential area, but its strangely shaped rocks make its presence felt.

However, the Tamagawa River in Noda was covered with a concrete embankment and has now lost its charm.

Matsuyama at the end <Information>

  • Facility name: Sue no Matsuyama
  • Location: 2-8-28 Yawata, Tagajo City, Miyagi Prefecture
  • Phone number: 022-368-1141
  • URL: Tagajo City official website

Google Map


[Shiogama (Shiogama)] Visit Shiogama Shrine rebuilt by Date Masamune

From Shiogama Shrine Miyagi Digital Photo Library

The morning after spending the night in Shiogama, Basho and Sora visited Oshu Ichinomiya Shiogama Shrine, which

In front of the temple is a treasure pagoda donated by Fujiwara Tadahira, in which Basho's feelings for the loyal military commander who fought and protected Minamoto no Yoshitsune until the end in accordance with his father Hidehira's will are written. I am.

After visiting the shrine, they charter a boat, enter Matsushima by sea, and land on Oshima.

Shiogama Shrine (Shiogama Shrine) <Information>

  • Facility name: Shiogama Shrine (Shiogama Shrine)
  • Location: 1-1 Ichimoriyama, Shiogama City, Miyagi Prefecture
  • Phone number: 022-367-1611
  • URL: Shiogama Shrine official website

Google Map


[Matsushima] I was so moved that I couldn't compose a haiku again at the place of my long-awaited Utamakura.

Landscape of Matsushima From Miyagi Digital Photo Library

Around noon on May 9th (June 25th), Basho arrived at Matsushima, one of Japan's three most scenic spots,

The text describes how the natural beauty of islands of various sizes and shapes floating in the bay with pine trees on their backs is a spectacular sight, and how impressed they were with the moonlit scenery at night.

Perhaps he was so moved that his long-cherished wish came true, that just like at Shirakawa Seki, here in Matsushima , Sora's haiku was included in the main text, saying, ``It's so wonderful that I can't think of a poem.''

Haunted by Matsushima and cranes, Hotogisu (Sora)

It means, ``The spectacular view of Matsushima is a perfect place for a crane, so please turn the Japanese crocodile that is chirping into a crane as well.''

It is said that the graceful cranes are a better match for Matsushima's wonderful scenery than the chirping Japanese squirrels.

Matsushima Coast<Information>

  • Facility name: Matsushima Kaigan
  • Location: Matsushima, Matsushima-cho, Miyagi-gun, Miyagi Prefecture

Google Map


[Matsushima] When did Basho visit Zuiganji Temple?

Zuiganji Temple Main Hall From Zuiganji Temple Official Facebook

The text states that Basho visited Zuiganji Temple on May 11th (June 27th), but Sora's travel diary states that he visited Zuiganji Temple immediately after arriving in Matsushima on the 9th. is.

Zuigan-ji Temple has existed under a different name in Matsushima, a sacred place, since the 9th century, but when Date Masamune made it his family temple, it was named ``Zuigan-ji'', and the main hall and the adjacent chest were It's a national treasure.

Although these buildings still look the same as they did when Basho visited, the nearby National Route 45 is lined with souvenir shops and restaurants, and amidst the hustle and bustle of tourists and cars, it feels like a ``fashionable trend.''

The Basho Festival is held at Zuiganji Temple on the second Sunday of November every year to commemorate Basho's visit to the temple.

Zuiganji Temple<Information>

  • Facility name: Zuiganji Temple
  • Location: 91 Matsushima-cho, Matsushima-cho, Miyagi-gun, Miyagi Prefecture
  • Phone number: 022-354-2023
  • URL: Zuiganji Temple official website

Google Map


Detour to the back ③] What kind of person is Matsuo Basho?

Matsuo Basho From Iga City official tourism website

Basho was a haiku poet of the Edo period who enhanced the artistry of haikai, which was a pastime of waka poetry, and established a style of haiku called ``sho-style haikai.''

Born in 1644 in Iga Ueno (Mie Prefecture) to a family of farmers who were allowed to use their surnames and swords, he served in a samurai family under the name Matsuo Munefusa, where he discovered haiku.

Basho moved to Edo at the age of 29 in search of haiku as his way of life, and after deepening his relationships with haiku poets in Nihonbashi and making a name for himself, he lived a reclusive life at Basho-an in Fukagawa.

Then, at the age of 46, he realized the ephemerality of owning a home while living in seclusion, and decided to travel to Mutsu, where he spent the rest of his life discovering his ideal form as a haiku poet.


summary

"Shiogama" is the official name, but it is sometimes written as "Shiogama." Between Sendai and Shiogama is Taga Castle, which was the capital of Mutsu Province, and there are many important poem pillows, and Basho and Sora are everywhere. I stopped by.

In addition, Basho says in the text, ``After visiting Zuiganji Temple on the 11th, I headed for Hiraizumi, but took the wrong route and arrived at Ishinomaki.'' However, in Sora's travel diary, he traveled to Ishinomaki on the 10th and stayed there. doing.

I don't know if this was a misunderstanding on Basho's part or if he had some kind of intention, but they leave Matsushima and head to Hiraizumi in Iwate Prefecture, the biggest destination on their Oku journey.


Next article: [Series: Tracing the narrow path of the depths ④] Arriving at Hiraizumi, the Pure Land of the three generations of Fujiwara Basho, a dream of Basho


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