[Ten'ei Village, Fukushima Prefecture] Two thatched-roof hot spring inns. "Iwase Yumoto Onsen" full of nostalgic charm

Iwase Yumoto Onsen is located in Tenei Village in central Fukushima Prefecture, sandwiched between the cities of Sukagawa, Shirakawa, and Aizuwakamatsu

Tenei Village is home to the watershed that divides Japan into east and west, Hosaka Pass, which runs north to south through the center of the village. The village has a population of approximately 5,400 and 80% of its land is forested

The village is home to Lake Hatori, a well-known highland resort in Fukushima Prefecture, and is popular for its array of stylish and sophisticated hotels and pensions that could be mistaken for a European resort

Iwase Yumoto Onsen, where hot spring inns with thatched roofs line the streets ©Fukushima Travel

Iwase Yumoto Onsen is a purely Japanese-style hot spring resort that stands in stark contrast to Lake Hatori. It is smaller and less well-known than Aizu Higashiyama Onsen, Tsuchiyu Onsen, Dake Onsen, Ashinomaki Onsen, and Iwaki Yumoto Onsen in Fukushima Prefecture, but it has a unique charm


Two inns that retain the atmosphere of a rustic hot spring resort

Iwase Yumoto Onsen has only two hot spring inns. This hot spring, which is likely to be overlooked, captivates hot spring fans because it offers a taste of the traditional hot spring resort atmosphere

Gensentei Yuguchiya (left side) ©Fukushima Travel

There are two hot spring inns: Gensentei Yuguchiya and Hinoki Bath Inn Bunke

They are located along a small alley. Both buildings are old thatched-roof houses that were built over 140 years ago. From the outside, they have the atmosphere of a self-catering hot spring resort, but once you stay there, you'll realize that they are hot spring inns that offer heartfelt hospitality and will help you forget the hustle and bustle of the city

The current building was rebuilt after the Boshin War (1868-1869). Until recently, there was another hot spring inn called "Kadoya," but unfortunately it is no longer open


The naturally occurring chloride spring, which is rich in beneficial properties, is still used as a free-flowing spring

Sodium-calcium chloride spring, free-flowing hot spring (Hinoki Bath Inn Bunke) ©Fukushima Travel

The spring quality of Iwase Yumoto Onsen is a sodium-calcium chloride spring, and is a weakly alkaline beauty water. The source temperature is about 49°C, and the water naturally flows out at about 69 liters per minute

Both inns have hot spring water that flows directly from the source. The water is effective for neuralgia, muscle pain, joint pain, stiff joints, chronic digestive diseases, sensitivity to cold, recovery from illness, fatigue, cuts, chronic skin diseases, and chronic gynecological diseases. It is particularly effective for cuts, and it is said that in the past, injured farm horses were treated in this hot spring

Gensentei Yuguchiya's indoor bath

To digress a bit, the hot springs at Uma no Onsen (Racehorse Rehabilitation Center Joban Branch), a rehabilitation facility run by the Japan Racing Association (JRA) in Iwaki City, Fukushima Prefecture, also have sodium chloride spring water (officially known as sulfur-containing sodium chloride spring water)


An inn connected to the hot springs discovered during the Heian period and run by the bathkeepers for generations

Iwase Yumoto Onsen was a post town along the Iwase Kaido, which ran from the Shimotsuke Kaido (Aizu Nishi Kaido) that connected Nikko to Aizu and headed towards Shirakawa. The hot spring was discovered a long time ago, around the beginning of the 9th century (Heian period)

When Emperor Saga fell ill, he received a divine message that he needed medicinal hot spring mineral deposits to heal him. Following this message, the three Hoshi brothers, who were close to the emperor, traveled to the Michinoku region, which was little known in the capital at the time, and found a hot spring containing hot spring mineral deposits that were said to be effective against illness. Legend has it that when they brought the mineral deposits back to the capital and presented them to the emperor, he was completely cured

The three brothers remained in the area as the hot spring's caretakers, and the family has protected the hot springs for a long time. During the Edo period, they established three hot spring inns: Yuguchiya, Hoshinoya (now Hinoki Bath Inn Branch), and Kadoya (now closed), two of which are still operating as hotels today

Iwase Yumoto Onsen was also caught up in the Boshin War that broke out in the Aizu region from the end of the Edo period to the Meiji period. Because the Iwase Highway was the shortest route from Shirakawa to Aizu-Wakamatsu, the Aizu clan feared that the villages along the road would be used as bases for the Meiji government army, and so burned down all the buildings in the villages except for the shrines and temples

Yuguchiya and Hinoki Bath Inn Bunke are no exception, and the current buildings were rebuilt after the Boshin War

The interior of the building remains the same as it was 140 years ago (Gensentei Yuguchiya)

Iwase Yumoto Onsen <Information>

  • Address: Yumoto Idaira, Tenei Village, Iwase District, Fukushima Prefecture
  • Phone number: 0248-82-2117 (Tenae Village Tourism Association)
  • Spring quality: Sodium-calcium chloride spring
  • Source temperature: Approximately 49℃, natural spring
  • Official URL: Fukushima Travel

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Gensentei Yuguchiya, a nationally registered tangible cultural property

Gensentei Yuguchiya. The building on the left is the former post office

Gensentei Yuguchiya is a two-story traditional Japanese house with a thatched roof, with 12 guest rooms, all of which are Japanese-style. The hot spring baths have separate indoor baths for men and women. The adjacent white wooden buildings are formerly the site of a post office, and the second floor is used as guest rooms for Gensentei Yuguchiya

Mountain village cuisine served around the hearth

The cuisine is mountain village cuisine made with locally produced ingredients, including the local specialty yacon, and as the inn is located halfway between Aizu and Fukushima Nakadori, you can enjoy the local cuisine of both regions

Telephone Number 2 tells the story

Gensentei Yuguchiya <Information>

  • Name: Iwase Yumoto Onsen Gensentei Yuguchiya
  • Address: 14 Yumoto Iidaira, Tenei Village, Iwase District, Fukushima Prefecture, 962-0621
  • Phone number: 0248-84-2001
  • Official URL: http://www.gensen-yuguchiya.com/

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Hinoki Bath Inn Bunke has reduced the number of rooms and renovated in a modern Japanese style

© Hinoki Bath Inn Bunke

Hinoki Bath Inn Bunke opened in 1841 as Bunke Hoshinoya Ryokan, receiving hot springs from Hoshinoya, a family establishment founded by three brothers. It was renamed Hinoki Bath Inn Bunke in 1993. It is a two-story traditional house with a thatched roof, and is a very valuable building in the "curved house" style, one of the few remaining in the Aizu region

What originally consisted of two rooms has been remodeled into one. A Japanese-Western style room with twin beds. © Hinoki Bath Inn Bunke

There are four guest rooms. Originally there were eight guest rooms, but they have been renovated to half the number, four, while still retaining the old atmosphere, creating a luxurious space. One room has a bed on tatami mats and a workspace. There are two indoor baths that can be reserved for private use by groups

© Hinoki Bath Inn Bunke

The restaurant serves locally produced Satoyama cuisine, and there is also a wide selection of local sake and fruit liquor available


Hinoki Bath Inn Bunke <Information>

  • Name: Hinoki Bath Inn Bunke
  • Address: 7 Yumoto Iidaira, Tenei Village, Iwase District, Fukushima Prefecture, 962-0621
  • Phone number: 0248-84-2314
  • Official URL: https://www.yuyado-bunke.com/

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