[Minamiaizu District, Fukushima Prefecture] The abundance of hot springs in the Nasu volcanic belt is attractive. ``Yunokami Onsen'' is a base for sightseeing in ``Ouchi-juku'' and ``Tanohetsuri.''

Yunokami Onsen, built on the cliffs of the Aga River ©Fukushima Travel 

Yunogami Onsen is located in Shimogo Town, at the southernmost tip of Fukushima Prefecture's Aizu region, bordering Nasu-Shiobara City, Tochigi Prefecture. It's located along the Agano River (Aganogawa in its downstream Niigata Prefecture section) that flows through the center of town, at the confluence of National Route 121, which connects Nikko City and Aizuwakamatsu City in Tochigi Prefecture, and National Route 118, which leads to Sukagawa City. The abundant hot spring water that springs from the Nasu volcanic belt is a draw, making this a popular base for sightseeing, including Ouchi-juku, lined with thatched-roof houses, and Tonohetsuri, the most scenic spot in the Agano River


Ouchijuku, forgotten since the Meiji era, and Yunokami Onsen, back in the limelight

According to legend, the hot springs at Yunokami were discovered during the Nara period, when a monkey soothed his wounds in the hot springs that gushed forth from the riverbank. However, they did not appear in history for a long time after that. They only came into the spotlight in the Meiji period, when the Shimotsuke Kaido (known as the Aizu Nishi Kaido from the Kanto region), which had previously threaded through the mountainous region, was abolished and replaced by the new Shin-Nikko Kaido (National Route 121, 1884) running along the Agagawa River. It is said that the first hot spring inn opened in Yunokami in 1887 (Meiji 20)

Ouchi-juku, a post town on the Shimotsuke Kaido (Aizu-Nishi Kaido) ©Fukushima Travel
Ouchi-juku, a post town on the Shimotsuke Kaido (Aizu-Nishi Kaido) ©Fukushima Travel

During the Edo period, Shimotsuke Kaido Road, which connected Edo and Nikko to Aizu-Wakamatsu via the shortest route, was used by the Aizu clan and feudal lords from Yamagata and Akita on their alternate attendance routes, and as a major route for the distribution of goods between the Kanto region and the Aizu region, post towns along the road, including Ouchi-juku, were bustling with activity


The new road built in the Meiji era greatly developed Yunokami Onsen

Panoramic view of Yunokami Onsen © Shimogo Town
Panoramic view of Yunokami Onsen © Shimogo Town

In the Meiji era, the Shimotsuke Kaido road through the mountains was found to be too inefficient, so a new, flat national highway, Route 121, was built along the Agagawa River. The construction of the new road brought new places into the spotlight, such as Yunokami Onsen and Tonohetsuri, but the post towns on the old Shimotsuke Kaido road saw a decrease in people coming and going, and were left behind by the times. This led to the miracle that Ouchi-juku has remained in its original form

The old Shimotsuke Kaido road runs through the hilly mountainous area. National Historic Site © Shimogo Town
The old Shimotsuke Kaido road runs through the hilly mountainous area. National Historic Site © Shimogo Town

In parts of Shimogo-cho on the old Shimotsuke Kaido, roads and signposts remain intact and have been designated a national historic site


Abundant hot spring water, natural spring water for beautiful skin

"Yunokami Onsen" is a clear, colorless, alkaline simple hot spring ©Fukushima Travel
"Yunokami Onsen" is a clear, colorless, alkaline simple hot spring ©Fukushima Travel

Yunokami Onsen has eight hot springs. All eight are of similar quality, a simple alkaline hot spring. These eight springs are collected and distributed to approximately 25 hot spring facilities as well as private homes. The hot spring water is used at approximately 2,000 liters per minute, so abundant that each facility can use it as a free-flowing source. The source temperature is around 60°C. It is said to be effective for neuralgia, muscle pain, joint pain, bruises, sprains, chronic digestive diseases, sensitivity to cold, and fatigue recovery. The soft alkaline hot spring water is especially popular among women as it is known for its skin-beautifying properties

Yunokami Onsen<Information>

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Asakusa, Kinugawa Onsen, Aizu Highlands, Yunokami Onsen, and Aizuwakamatsu are connected by rail

When the Japanese National Railways Aizu Line (now Aizu Railway) opened in 1932 (Showa 7), connecting Nishiwakamatsu Station (Aizuwakamatsu City) and Aizu-Tajima Station (Minamiaizu Town) on the former Japanese National Railways Tadami Line (now JR Tadami Line), Yunokami Station was built, greatly improving transportation access to Yunokami Onsen

The JNR Aizu Line was extended to Aizu-Takinohara Station (now Aizu-Kogen-Ozeguchi Station) in 1953 (Showa 28), and then in 1986 (Showa 61), the Yagan Railway Aizu-Kinugawa Line opened, connecting Shin-Fujiwara Station on the Tobu Railway Kinugawa Line with Aizu-Takinohara Station, connecting Asakusa in Tokyo to Yunokami Onsen via Kinugawa Onsen. When the Yagan Railway opened, Aizu-Takinohara Station was renamed Aizu-Kogen Station, and has now been renamed Aizu-Kogen-Ozeguchi Station. The JNR Aizu Line was transferred to the third sector in 1987 (Showa 62) and renamed Aizu Railway


Aizu Railway's popular "Oza Toro Scenic Train"

On the left is a trolley car, and on the right is the &quot;Oza Toro Observation Train,&quot; a tatami-mat viewing train. ©Aizu Railway
On the left is a trolley car, and on the right is the "Oza Toro Observation Train," a tatami-mat viewing train. ©Aizu Railway

As of 2022, all Aizu Railway trains depart and arrive at Aizu-Wakamatsu Station on the JR Tadami Line and Ban'etsu West Line. Additionally, some Tobu Kinugawa Line express trains run to Aizu-Tajima Station, and a relay service is available for transfers. The popular "Oza Toro Panorama Train" runs between Aizu-Wakamatsu Station and Aizu-Tajima Station, with one car featuring trolley seating and the other featuring a tatami room and observation seating (please check the operating dates for the Oza Toro Panorama Train)

All Aizu Railway trains stop at Yunokami Onsen Station, making it a convenient base for sightseeing in the Aizu-Wakamatsu, Aizu Highlands, and Oze areas


Yunokami Onsen Station: A station building with a thatched roof welcomes you

The station building has a thatched roof, which is rare nationwide. ©Fukushima Travel
The station building has a thatched roof, which is rare nationwide. ©Fukushima Travel

Yunokami Onsen Station has a thatched roof and is a popular photo spot for tourists and railway fans. The thatched roof station building was built in 1987 when the Aizu Railway was transferred from the former Japanese National Railways. The station building also has a hearth, and the foot bath attached to the station is free to use

Yunokami Onsen Station with cherry blossoms in full bloom ©Fukushima Travel
Yunokami Onsen Station with cherry blossoms in full bloom ©Fukushima Travel

Yunokami Onsen Station<Information>

  • Facility name: Yunokami Onsen Station
  • Phone number: 0241-68-2533
  • For inquiries about timetables, etc., please contact Aizu Railway
  • Phone number: 0242-28-5886
  • URL: Aizu Railway

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Tonohetsuri, a designated natural monument

The strangely shaped rocks that stretch for about 200m each have names such as Byobu Rock, Eboshi Rock, and Goma Pagoda Rock © Shimogo Town
The strangely shaped rocks that stretch for about 200m each have names such as Byobu Rock, Eboshi Rock, and Goma Pagoda Rock © Shimogo Town

"Tonohetsuri" is a scenic spot located about 5km upstream on the Agagawa River from Yunokami Onsen. "Hetsuri" means steep cliff in Aizu dialect, and it was named after the many cliffs along the river that stand tall like towers

This single layer of rock is made up of multiple layers of hard rocks such as tuff breccia and relatively soft tuff. River erosion has worn away only the soft tuff, creating this magnificent landscape over the course of more than a million years. This landscape has been designated a national natural monument

The remains of the rocks have been turned into a walking path ©Fukushima Travel
The remains of the rocks have been turned into a walking path ©Fukushima Travel

Cross the suspension bridge and walk along the promenade built on the eroded area, where you can see the magnificent natural formations. The temple at the back is said to have been built in 807 by Sakanoue no Tamuramaro, who was the commander in chief of the expedition against the Emishi (northeastern Japan)

Tower of the Dead<Information>

  • Facility name: Tonohetsuri
  • Location: Shimotabayashi, Yagoshima, Shimogo Town, Minamiaizu District, Fukushima Prefecture
  • Phone number: 0241-69-1144 (Shimogo Town Tourism Association)
  • Free to visit *The suspension bridge is open in winter

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