"Negaseki" is one of the three ancient Oshu sekies that surpasses Minamoto Yoshitsune and Matsuo Basho [Tsuruoka City, Yamagata Prefecture]

Nezugaseki (also known as Nenjugaseki or Nenjuseki) was a checkpoint that served as a fortress and was built during the Ritsuryo political period (Asuka period to Heian period) to prevent invasions from the Tohoku region (Emishi), which the Yamato court had not yet been able to control, into its controlled areas (west of the Kanto and Hokuriku regions).

, Nakoso Barrier (Fukushima Prefecture) along the Pacific Ocean Shirakawa Barrier further inland were established, and it is believed that they strictly controlled the movement of people.

Eventually, the power of the Imperial Court extended to the Tohoku region, and checkpoints remained in place for some time even after Dewa Province (Yamagata Prefecture and Akita Prefecture) and Mutsu Province (Fukushima Prefecture, Miyagi Prefecture, Iwate Prefecture, Aomori Prefecture) were established

Nezumigaseki, Atsumi-cho, Tsuruoka City, is located on the border with Niigata Prefecture. The mountain in the center of the photo approaches the railroad tracks, and the "Ancient Nezumigaseki" was excavated on the right side of the tracks (towards the sea). This is the border with Niigata Prefecture (above). ©Yamagata Prefecture

These the "Three Ancient Checkpoints of Oshu," gradually ceased to function as exchanges with the Tohoku region became more active in the late Heian period. By the Edo period, there was no trace of any of the three checkpoints, and it was no longer known whether they had actually existed.

However, because their names appear in waka poetry from the Nara and Heian periods, the sites of the three checkpoints were discovered and excavated by the feudal lords who ruled the areas, and they were developed into tourist attractions


The "Early Modern Nembu Pass Site" developed by the Shonai feudal lord and the "Ancient Nezumi Pass Site" excavated and developed in the Showa era

Only this sign remains at the site of the "Ancient Nezumigaseki Site" ©Tsuruoka City

Nezumigaseki was located on the border between Dewa Province and Echigo Province (Niigata Prefecture), but like other places, its location has not been identified

However, during the Edo period, the lord of the Shonai domain, who ruled the area, constructed the Nenju Barrier Site

"The site of the early modern Nenju Barrier." A historic site designated by Tsuruoka City ©Travel to Yamagata

For a long time, the area developed by the Shonai Domain was considered to be the site of Nezumigaseki, but excavations conducted in 1968 (Showa 43) discovered the remains of Nezumigaseki a little closer to the prefectural border. As a result, the newly discovered site of Nezumigaseki is now known as the "Ancient Nezumigaseki Site ," and the area developed by the Shonai Domain is now known the "Early Modern Nenjuseki Site," and both are open to the public as historic sites.

At the same time as the excavation of the "Ancient Nezumigaseki Site," remains of buildings presumed to have been for military purposes, as well as remains of iron and salt production and pottery kilns (Sekido Production Site) were unearthed in the settlement (Sekido Shuraku) located in front of the gate of the checkpoint, providing definitive evidence that this was the site of a checkpoint

*The "Ancient Nezumigaseki Site and Sekido Production Site" and the "Early Modern Prayer Bead Site" are designated historic sites by Tsuruoka City

Ancient Nezumigaseki Site, Sekido Production Site <Information>

  • Facility name: Ancient Nezumigaseki Site, Sekido Production Site
  • Address: 45-1 Nezumigaseki Hei, Tsuruoka City, Yamagata Prefecture
  • Phone number: 0235-43-3547 (Atsumi Tourism Association)
  • Facility name: Early modern Nenju Barrier Site
  • Address: 246 Nezumigaseki, Tsuruoka City, Yamagata Prefecture
  • Phone number: 0235-43-3547 (Atsumi Tourism Association)

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"Nezumi no Seki" is a famous poetic site from the Heian period

The existence of Nezumigaseki became known to later generations through the book on waka poetry, Noin Utamakura, written by the Heian period monk Noin, who also appears in the Ogura Hyakunin Isshu .

"Utamakura" refers to famous places that appear in tanka poems, and Noin has compiled famous places from all over the country that are written about as utamakura in his "Noin Utamakura."

"Nezumi no Seki" (Rat Barrier), the first place to appear in Dewa Province in "Noin Utamakura" Collection: National Institute of Literature

"Nezumi no Seki" is the first place that is mentioned in the section introducing the utamakura of Dewa Province in "Noin Utamakura."

This is the first appearance of Nezumigaseki in history, but unfortunately no poems have been found that mention Nezumigaseki


The site of Nezumigaseki, which was on the border, is still on the prefectural border

If you walk further behind the prefectural boundary marker, you will soon come to the "Ancient Nezumigaseki Site" ©Travel to Yamagata

Nezumigaseki was located on the border between Dewa Province and Echigo Province, and is still the prefectural border between Yamagata Prefecture and Niigata Prefecture today, and the Yamagata Prefecture/Niigata Prefecture Border Marker, which marks the prefectural border, stands near the "Ancient Nezumigaseki Site."

It is so central to the town that you might think this is the prefectural border, but in the days of Nezumigaseki, there was only one road, the Hokuriku Road (an ancient highway), that passed through here


Nezugaseki Coast, where Minamoto no Yoshitsune is said to have arrived during his escape to the Tohoku region

Sunset at Nezumigaseki Coast, where Yoshitsune is said to have landed ©Yamagata Prefecture

During the turbulent period of the transition from the Heian period to the Kamakura period, Minamoto no Yoshitsune, who was the driving force behind the downfall of the Taira clan along with Minamoto no Yoritomo, was driven out of the capital by his brother Yoritomo, who feared his power. Yoshitsune then headed north across the Sea of ​​Japan, relying on the Oshu Fujiwara clan, who had enormous influence in Hiraizumi, Oshu (Iwate Prefecture), and where Yoshitsune himself had spent his youth

It is said that Yoshitsune landed on the coast at Nezumigaseki and passed through the gates of Nezumigaseki on his way to Hiraizumi. This is inferred from the military tale "Gikeiki," written around the Muromachi period, and a monument marking the place where Yoshitsune landed has been erected near the coast

In the Kabuki play "Kanjincho," Yoshitsune and Benkei land at Ataka Barrier (Komatsu City, Ishikawa Prefecture), but it is also said that they landed at Nezumigaseki. "Yoshitsune and Benkei Kanjincho" Collection: Tokyo Metropolitan Library

Bentenjima, where Yoshitsune is said to have landed and where the "Love Lighthouse" is popular

Bentenjima is a small island on Nezumigaseki Coast with a circumference of 800m and a 15-minute walk around. Previously, it was only accessible at low tide when it was connected to the mainland, but now a footbridge has been built and it is accessible at any time

There is a legend that Minamoto no Yoshitsune landed on the island while traveling north to seek help from the Oshu Fujiwara clan, and a monument was erected at the island's Itsukushima Shrine (which was erected when the NHK historical drama "Minamoto no Yoshitsune" was aired in 1966)

At the tip of the Sea of ​​Japan side is Nezumigaseki Lighthouse, which has been certified as a "lighthouse to fall in love with," and the sunset from the observation deck is a spectacular sight

"The Lighthouse of Love" Nezugaseki Lighthouse ©Travel to Yamagata

Bentenjima <Information>

  • Facility name: Scenic Bentenjima
  • Address: Nezumigaseki Coast, Tsuruoka City, Yamagata Prefecture
  • Phone number: 0235-43-3547 (Atsumi Tourism Association)

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Nezumigaseki Pass, a place that Matsuo Basho also crossed

Basho's haiku monument stands near Shiotawara Rock on the coastline of Atsumi Town

During his journey along the Narrow Road to the Deep North, Matsuo Basho crossed Nezumigaseki and headed towards Echigo

After visiting the Dewa Sanzan (Mount Haguro, Mount Gassan, and Mount Yudono), we enjoyed a boat trip on the Mogami River and arrived in Sakata (Sakata City, Yamagata Prefecture), facing the Sea of ​​Japan, where we stayed for a few days. After that, we went a little further north to Kisakata (Nikaho City, Akita Prefecture), and when we returned to Sakata,

Atsumiyama and Fukiura in the evening

Basho visited Sakata during the hot summer months (June in the lunar calendar), so it seems that Mount Atsumi (736m above sea level) visible in the distance was enjoying the cool evening breeze at Fukiura (Sakata coast)

Atsumi Onsen at the foot of Mount Atsumi , and crossed Nezumigaseki Pass on June 27, 1689.


The "Nenju no Matsu" Pine has been cared for by generations since the Edo period

The "Nenju no Matsu Garden" was designed by world-famous landscape architect Ken Nakajima. ©Travel to Yamagata

The "Nenju no Matsu" (Nenju Pine) is a black pine that was planted in the garden of the owner of Murakamiya Ryokan (Murakamiya Ryokan, closed in 1960) about 400 years ago. It has been cared for by generations and has been carefully protected by the local government even after the inn closed down.

The main trunk is about 4m tall and has a circumference of about 1.2m, but the branches stretch out about 20m towards the east, creeping along the ground. Currently, the "Nenju no Matsu Garden" has been developed around the tree, and it has become a place of relaxation for the local residents

*The Murakamiya Prayer Beads Pine Tree is a natural monument of Yamagata Prefecture

Nenju no Matsu Garden <Information>

  • Facility name: Nenju no Matsu Garden
  • Address: 87, Nezumigaseki Okiya, Tsuruoka City, Yamagata Prefecture, and other locations
  • Phone number: 0235-43-3547 (Atsumi Tourism Association)
  • Opening hours:
  •    April-October/9:00-17:00
  •    November - March / 9:00 - 16:00
  • Closed: Open daily
  • Admission fee: 100 yen (contribution)

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Atsumi Onsen, the historic hot spring where Matsuo Basho stayed

Atsumi Onsen, where luxury inns line the Atsumi River ©Travel to Yamagata

Atsumi Onsen is a hot spring that springs up at the foot of Mount Atsumi and is said to have a history of over 1,000 years. During the Edo period, the Shonai Domain's hot spring office was established here, and it was a popular hot spring resort.

The spring water is a sodium-calcium chloride-sulfate spring with a source temperature of 68°C. It is effective for cuts, burns, eczema, skin diseases, neuralgia, rheumatism, gynecological diseases, recovery from illness, and general health promotion

There are six hot spring inns (members of the Atsumi Onsen Ryokan Cooperative Association) and one day-trip bathing facility that is also open to tourists. In addition to the abundant and beneficial hot springs, Atsumi Onsen boasts the finest hospitality and the bounty of the Sea of ​​Japan and the Shonai Plain. If you are visiting Nezumigaseki, we recommend adding Atsumi Onsen to your itinerary

Atsumi Onsen <Information>

  • Facility name: Atsumi Onsen
  • Address: Yuatsumi, Tsuruoka City, Yamagata Prefecture
  • Phone number: 0235-43-3547 (Atsumi Tourism Association)
  • URL: Atsumi Onsen

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