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during the Edo periodMasumi(1754-1829)Oga Gofu, this book introduces the Oga Peninsula as it was walked by Sugae Masumi, contrasting the Edo period with the present day.
The second installment resumes our journey around the Oga Peninsula, featuring "Spring Breeze of Oga,which explore the west coastBell Breeze of Oga"and "Island Breeze of Oga,.
This article will be written with reference to manuscripts held by the Akita Prefectural Museum, the National Archives of Japan, and the National Diet Library, as well as a modern translation published in 2000. Unless otherwise noted, dates from the Edo period are those recorded by Masumi (using the old calendar)
reference
Akita Prefectural Museum Sugae Masumi Library (Manuscript)
Published by Heibonsha, Sugae Masumi Travelogue 5, edited and translated by Uchida Takeshi and Miyamoto Tsuneichi, published on August 9, 2000
*The quotations from Masumi Sugae's writings are based on "Masumi Sugae's Travels, edited and translated by Takeshi Uchida and Tsuneichi Miyamoto, published by Heibonsha."
Another tour of the Oga Peninsula begins at Kohanji Temple (Masayama Shrine), where the legend of Namahage remains ("Oga's Spring Breeze")
New Year's Day 1810 in Yachinaka (Okawa Yachinaka, Gojome-cho), near the Oga Peninsulaonand,March 20th, he set out for the Oga Peninsula again.
They headed north along the east coast of Lake Hachirogata, then north to Noshiro, then south along the Sea of Japan, arriving at Sarukawa (Noishi Sarukawa, Oga City), the entrance to the Oga Peninsula, on March 27. However, Masumi became ill, and finally left Sarukawa on April 7, arriving at the foot of Mt. Shinzan (567m) that same day
Mayama/Kohanji Temple (Mayama Shrine) "Oga no Harukaze" (Spring Breeze of Oga) from a manuscript in the National Archives of Japan
Like the main mountain towering next to it, Mayama is a sacred mountain where the legend of the Akagami remains, and midway up the mountain currently sits Mayama Shrine (known as Koubou-ji Temple until the Edo period, Mayama in Kitaura, Oga City)
Mayama Shrine is known for its deep connection to the Namahage, and itthe Oga Mayama Folklore Museumand the Namahage Museum on its grounds. The Namahage Sedo Festival is held there every February.
Public transportation: Approximately 40 minutes by Oga Peninsula Ainori Taxi "Namahage Shuttle" from Oga Station on the JR Oga Line
By car: Approximately 40 minutes from Showa Oga Peninsula IC on the Akita Expressway
GOOGLE MAP
Enjoy the magnificent view of the west coast of the Oga Peninsula from Happodai
View from Hachimokudai (viewing point) shows, from right, Ichinomegata, Ninomegata, Sannomegata, and Toga Bay beyond. (Currently, Sannomegata is hidden by trees and other obstacles.) From a manuscript of "Oga no Suzukaze" (Oga's Bell Wind) in the Akita Prefectural Museum
Masumi, who was feeling unwell, stayed in the village of Mayama until April 11th. On the 11th, she visited Kōhanji Temple once, and finally left Mayama on the 12th,Hatasaki(Nyūdōzaki/Nyūdōzaki, Kitaura, Oga City). SheKitanoura(Kitaura/Kitaura, Oga City) andNomura(Nomura, Kitaura, Oga City) below, and along the way,Tadenuma-no-Tai(Hachibōdai/Shioya Wayama, Togahama, Oga City),Ichinomegata(a nationally designated natural monument),Ninomegata,Sannomegata,Toga-no-urashe admired the magnificent scenery of
Location: Shioya Kazuyama, Togahama, Oga City, Akita Prefecture
Phone number: 0185-24-4700 (Oga City Tourism Association)
access:
Public transportation: Approximately 20 minutes by taxi or rental car from JR Oga Station
By car: Approximately 50 minutes from Showa Oga Peninsula IC on the Akita Expressway
GOOGLE MAP
After descending the mountain, Masumi stopped off at Kitanoura, which she could see below, on the 14th, and on the 16th she stopped off at a coastal village before arriving at Yumoto (Kitaura Yumoto, Oga City), where hot springs gush out, on the 22nd. She stayed there for a while
Yumoto, along with the hot springs of the nearby Ishiyama district, is nowOga Onsenkyo. While the Ishiyama hot springs were discovered during limestone mining in the Meiji era, the Yumoto hot springs were discovered during the Heian period. It seems to have been very popular during the Edo period, and Masumi wrote that its taste was "spicy and had a hint of ferrous sulfate." "Spicy" means salty, and ferrous sulfate is a type of hot spring containing iron, characterized by its greenish color. Currently, only one inn, "Onsen Ryokan Yumoto," which was founded in the Meiji era, is in operation, and the spring water is listed as a carbonated weak saline spring.
By early May, I was in Yumoto, and "Oga no Harukaze" ended in a village called Yunoshiri, near Yumoto
A stroll around Hatazaki (Nyudozaki), which was very lonely during the Edo period ("Oga no Suzukaze")
Hatazaki (Nyudozaki). Because the coastline is lined with cliffs, there were only a few houses on the rocks. From a manuscript of "Oga no Suzukaze" (Oga's Bell Wind) in the Akita Prefectural Museum
We will walk around the villages on the north coast until mid-June, observing and learning about local daily life, customs, and events. At the end of June, we will finally depart for the west coast
our first destination,Hatazaki(Nyudozaki/Nyudozaki, Kitaura, Oga City), a little after June 20th. Nyudozaki was apparently a poor place where "fishermen's houses were built on top of towering rocks, and rice could not be grown," and the scenery that unfolded before us was completely different from what it is today, the top tourist spot on the Oga Peninsula.
On June 23rd, we went to Mizushima, which floats off the coast of Nyudozaki, and took a walk. The island has flat rocks just above the water's surface, and it seems that at the time, when the wind blew, it would have been hidden underwater. From the boat on the way back to Mizushima, we could see the steep rocks of Nyudozaki, including the Shishiotoshi (Deer Dropping) rock formation
INFORMATION
Facility name: Nyudozaki
Location: Nyudozaki, Kitaura, Oga City, Akita Prefecture
Phone number: 0185-24-4700 (Oga City Tourism Association)
access:
Public transportation: Approximately 30 minutes by Namahage Shuttle from Oga Station on the JR Oga Line
By car: Approximately 45 minutes from Showa Oga Peninsula IC on the Akita Expressway
GOOGLE MAP
Wandering around the very busy Toga Bay area
The village closest to you is Toganoura, and the one at the farthest cape is Shiotoura. From a manuscript of "Oga no Suzukaze" (Oga's Suzukaze) in the Akita Prefectural Museum
On June 24th, I left Nyudozaki on foot andToganoura(Toga, Oga City), a port town along Toga Bay on the west coast. Toga Bay was formerly a volcanic crater and has a beautiful circular shape. As a result, the waves are calm, and it is a bustling port where "large and small ships gather and anchor, so there are one or two prostitutes around."
Masumi stayed one night in Toga-no-ura, then traveled south alongToga Bayencountering rain at Shioto-no-hama (Toga-shiohama, Oga City), where she stayed the night. Shioto-no-hama is now the site of the Oga Aquarium. "Oga no Suzukaze" ends here, and she continues writing "Oga no Shimakaze" (Island Wind of Oga).
Viewing the complex coastline and strange rock formations of the southwest from a dugout canoe (Oga no Shimakaze)
The journey began on July 13th, departing from Shiodonoura. From Shiodonoura, he boarded a dugout canoe and traveled south along the west coast of the Oga Peninsula, viewing the strange rock formations and leaving behind many drawings
From Shioto onwards, the terrain continues to become complex, with rocks of various shapes lining the cape and several fishing ports in small bays. The boat arrived at our accommodation, a fishing port called Kamonoura (Kamoaosa, Oga City) in the centre of the west coast
Masumi,Kamo-no-ura is divided into theKamo district (formerly Kamo Village) to the north and the Aosa district (formerly Aosa Village) to the south, with the central Kamo fishing port in between. Even today, houses line the shore for about 800 meters from north to south. During the Edo period, it is said that in the summer, residents would "cover themselves with cloths on the sand on the beach when the sun went down, to avoid the mosquitoes that gathered there, men, women, and children alike" and sleep there.
July 14th is Obon (July 13th-16th / August 13th-16th in the solar calendar), and from morning the villagers prepare red bean rice (azukimeshi) along with boiled fish and vegetables to offer to the family altar. In the evening,the Bon Odori dance <Dadadako>is held grandly by Kamo and Aosa, and Masumi also came to watch and enjoy the night in Oga.
"Dadadako" is a unique name for the Bon Odori dance in Kamo Aosa. This Bon Odori dance had a long history but ceased around 1998. However, it was revived in 2010 thanks to a proposal by university students and continues to this day.
Be amazed by the strange rock formations at Kankane Cave and Osanbashi Pier
Shiraito Falls, "Oga no Shimakaze" (Oga Island Breeze), from a manuscript in the Akita Prefectural Museum
On the 15th, we visited the nearby Shiraito Falls andthe Kankane Cavewent insideThe Kankane Caveis a cave formed by the erosion of coastal rocks by the waves, and it is very magical when sunlight shines in through the holes in the ceiling.
Kankane Cave (Kankane Cave) "Oga no Shimakaze" (Oga Island Breeze) from the Akita Series of manuscripts held at the National Diet Library
On the 17th, we set sail from Kamo Port and enjoyed the unique rock formations and waterfalls along the coast from the boat all the way to Monzen (MotoyamaMonzen, Funakawa Port, Oga City), the southernmost point. Many of the rock formations were given names based on their shapes even back then, and some of these names are still familiar today, such as Daisankyo (Great Pier),Stage Island)ButaijimaKojaku no Iwaya (Peacock Cave). The boat passed between many small islands and arrived at Monzen.
This is Masumi's second visit to the temple gate, andNisshakuji Temple(Akagami Shrine), which he also visited on his previous visit (August 27, 1804). Nisshakuji Temple nowAkagami Shrinepreserves its traditions asthe 999 stone steps, as well asthe Goshado Hall(a nationally important cultural property), making it one of the most popular tourist destinations on the Oga Peninsula.
For sightseeing along the west coast of the Oga Peninsula, we recommend the [Oga Peninsula Sightseeing Cruise], where you can admire the unique rock formations and the mountains of Oga from the sea, just like Sugae Masumi.
Train: Approximately 30 minutes by taxi from Oga Station on the JR Oga Line. Rental cars available near Oga Station
By car: Approximately 70 minutes from Showa Oga Peninsula IC on the Akita Expressway
GOOGLE MAP
After finishing his visit to Hishiji Temple (Akagami Shrine), Masumi returned to the town in front of the temple, and this is where "Oga no Shimakaze" ends. Then, on July 18th, he left the town in front of the temple and began "Oga no Kanpu" (The Cold Wind of Oga), walking along the southern coast. During the journey of "Oga no Kanpu," he encountered the Oga Great Earthquake. "Oga no Kanpu"Part 3: Tracing the Oga Peninsula as Walked by Sugae Masumicontinues in
The Oga Peninsula, where Masumi Sugae walked, has been equipped with 90 signposts and information boards for visitors to explore
The path that Sugae Masumi walked on the Oga Peninsula has been preserved as the "Sugae Masumi Path," with marker posts at 83 locations with some connection to him, and detailed explanatory signs at 8 other locations. Please use this as a guide when exploring the Oga Peninsula.
Link: Following the Oga Peninsula Walked by Masumi Sugae (3 Parts)
My love of travel led me to work for a travel magazine some time ago, and now I work as a travel writer for an online publication. I have visited all 47 prefectures in Japan, focusing on the Tohoku region, and I enjoy soaking in hot springs and experiencing traditional Japanese culture, including old townscapes, lifestyles, and performing arts and crafts
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