[Part 1] Masumi Sugae's Walk through the Oga Peninsula – Kanpuzan and Honzan, a sacred mountain tour [Akita Prefecture] 

SugaeMasumi was a travel writer from the Edo period who mainly traveled around northern Japan and Hokkaido, and recorded the scenery, people's lives, and customs, along with colored illustrations.

He entered Akita at the age of 48 and traveled extensively throughout the region until his death at the age of 76, leaving behind numerous writings

He is also known as Japan's first folklorist, and his book " Sugae Masumi's Travelogue, " which was kept at the Meitokukan , a domain school in Akita Prefecture , has been designated a National Important Cultural Property.


He left behind five travelogues of the Oga Peninsula, known as "The Five Winds of Oga."

Sugae Masumi (1754-1829) © Akita Prefectural Museum
Sugae Masumi (1754-1829) © Akita Prefectural Museum

Sugae Masumi first set foot on the Oga Peninsula in 1804. He traveled north from Kubota Castle town (Akita City), first visiting the southern coast of the Oga Peninsula, Mount Kanpu, and Lake Hachirogata (Ogata Village), before walking towards Noshiro (Noshiro City). He compiled his experiences in a book titled "Autumn Wind of Oga."

Masumi was so impressed with the Oga Peninsula that he visited again in 1810. His observations from that time were compiled into four books: "Spring Breeze of Oga," "Cool Breeze of Oga," "Island Breeze of Oga," and "Cold Breeze of Oga."

These five books, "Spring Breeze of Oga," "Cool Breeze of Oga," "Island Breeze of Oga," "Cold Breeze of Oga," and the first "Autumn Breeze of Oga," are collectivelythe "Five Winds of Oga"and are extremely valuable resources for understanding the Oga Peninsula during the Edo period.

Here, we will trace the footsteps of Sugae Masumi in Oga, following the "Five Winds of Oga," in three parts. The first part is "The Autumn Wind of Oga," which describes his first visit to the Oga Peninsula in 1804

The "Sugae Masumi Travelogue," a nationally designated important cultural property, is privately owned and therefore not available for public viewing. However, several copies of the "Sugae Masumi Travelogue," meticulously copied by later calligraphers, exist and can be viewed at the Akita Prefectural Museum, the National Diet Library, the National Archives of Japan, and libraries throughout Japan

This paper will be written with reference to manuscripts held by the Akita Prefectural Museum, the National Archives of Japan, the National Diet Library, and a modern Japanese translation published in 2000

Unless otherwise noted, the dates from the Edo period are those recorded by Masumi (in the old calendar)

reference

*The quotations from Masumi Sugae's writings are based on "Masumi Sugae's Travels, edited and translated by Takeshi Uchida and Tsuneichi Miyamoto, published by Heibonsha."


[Autumn Breeze in Oga]Walking along the southern coast and inland of the Oga Peninsula

On August 14, 1804, Masumi left his lodgings in the castle town of Kubota, the seat of the Kubota Domain (Akita Domain), and spent the night at Tsuchizaki Port (Tsuchizaka Port, Akita City). The following day, on the 15th, he set out on foot towards the Oga Peninsula

Our first destination was Tenno Village (Tenno, Katagami City), located along Lake Hachirogata, and we used it as our base for a while to explore the Oga Peninsula

Lake Hachirogata was originally a lake located at the base of the Oga Peninsula, but most of its surface has now been reclaimed, leaving only a small portion that remains as Lake Hachiro (Ogata Village)

Kanpuzan. The rock mass at the bottom is "Oni no Kakurezato." The pond on the right is "Aratama no Ike." From a manuscript of "Oga no Akikaze" (Autumn Winds of Oga) in the Akita Prefectural Museum
Kanpuzan. The rock mass at the bottom is "Oni no Kakurezato." The pond on the right is "Aratama no Ike." From a manuscript of "Oga no Akikaze" (Autumn Winds of Oga) in the Akita Prefectural Museum

Visit the Oni no Kakurezato (Demon's Hidden Village) and Shintama Pond at Kanpuzan Mountain

On August 21st, I climbed Mount Kanpu (elevation 335m) and was deeply moved by the scenery

On the way down the mountain, we visited a place called "Ishikura" or "Kakurego," where many rocks have fallen and piled up like a mountain. This place is still a tourist attraction known as "Oni no Kakurezato" (Demon's Hidden Village), and it is said to be the place where demons lived.

Mount Kanpu was originally a volcano that was active from about 30,000 years ago to about 10,000 years ago, but it is currently inactive and is not registered as an active volcano

The "Demon's Hidden Village" was formed when lava, pushed out from underground during an ancient volcanic eruption, formed a mountain-like structure that collapsed under its own weight. Inside, there is a space about the size of three tatami mats, which is said to be the dwelling place of the demons

[Demon's Hidden Village]. Almost unchanged since the Edo period. © National Federation of Geological Survey Associations
[Demon's Hidden Village]. Almost unchanged since the Edo period. © National Federation of Geological Survey Associations

The space existed in the Edo period, and Masumi and his party "all just stuck their heads in and peered in," finding it so creepy that no one wanted to go inside

It is written that nearby there was a stone called "Suzurimizu" (inkstone-shaped stone with a hollow in it that held water), and this inkstone is thought to be the "Kōbō Daishi's inkstone stone," which is said to still be filled with water and never runs dry

Demon's Hidden Village/Kanpuzan <Information>

  • Facility name: Demon's Hidden Village/Kanpuzan
  • Address: 62-1 Kanpuzan, Wakimoto Tominaga, Oga City, Akita Prefecture 
  • Phone number: 0185-25-3055

Google Map


Long ago, a woman threw herself into the Shintama Pond, where it is said a giant snake lives

On the way down the mountain , we stopped by Shin-Tama Pond at the foot of Kanpu Mountain, where it is said that a woman named Tamahime threw herself into the water long ago

Shintama Pond is said to be home to a giant snake. During the Edo period, a woman jumped into the pond and turned into a giant snake. @Akita Prefecture Regional Development Promotion Division
Shintama Pond is said to be home to a giant snake. During the Edo period, a woman jumped into the pond and turned into a giant snake. @Akita Prefecture Regional Development Promotion Division

Shintama Pond is still known as a viewpoint of Mt. Kanpu, but the legend that is passed down today is slightly different from the story Masumi heard

According to " Oga Folktales ," a girl named Otama, who was courted by the village headman, threw herself into a pond to escape him and transformed into a giant snake .

There is another legend about Shin-Tama Pond. The original Tama Pond was located in the crater of Mount Kanpu, but when the water dried up, the giant snake that lived there moved to a pond at the foot of the mountain

Shintama Pond <Information>

  • Facility name: Shintama Pond
  • Location: Oga City, Akita Prefecture, Oga Nakatakigawa Kanpuzan Yokodori
  • Phone number: 0185-24-4700 (Oga City Tourism Association)
Kanpuzan Shintama Pond ©Basic Map/Geospatial Information Authority of Japan
Kanpuzan Shintama Pond ©Basic Map/Geospatial Information Authority of Japan

From Wakimoto, through Shiosezaki, to the gate of Akagami Shrine

Cape Ikuhana. Wakimoto Bay, where the ruins of Wakimoto Castle are located, is depicted. The forest on the left page is the ruins of Wakimoto Castle. From a manuscript of &quot;Oga no Akikaze&quot; (Autumn Winds of Oga) held at the National Archives of Japan
Cape Ikuhana. Wakimoto Bay, where the ruins of Wakimoto Castle are located, is depicted. The forest on the left page is the ruins of Wakimoto Castle. From a manuscript of "Oga no Akikaze" (Autumn Winds of Oga) held at the National Archives of Japan

On August 24th, we went to Wakimoto (Wakimoto, Oga City) on the coast and visited the medieval castle ruins [ Wakimoto Castle Ruins ] (Masumi calls it Ohira Castle) at Oibanasaki

From Cape Ikuhanazaki, we could see Mount Chokai, Tobishima (Sakata City, Yamagata Prefecture), and Mount Taihei (Akita City, Akita Prefecture), which gave the castle its name, and I was captivated by the view

The next day, we traveled west along the coast, passing through Funakawa (Funakawa Port, Oga City), Onagawa (Onnagawa, Funakawa Port, Oga City), and Tsubaki-no-ura (Tsubaki, Funakawa Port, Oga City), where camellias grow abundantly, before arriving at Kohama -no-ura (Kohama, Funakawa Port, Oga City) , the southernmost port on the Oga Peninsula where Shiosezaki is located .

Tsubaki-no-ura is designated as a national natural monument as the northernmost camellia. The white cliff on the left page is [Tsubaki no Shiraiwa]. From a manuscript of &quot;Oga no Akikaze&quot; (Oga Autumn Wind) held by the National Archives of Japan
Tsubaki-no-ura is designated as a national natural monument as the northernmost camellia. The white cliff on the left page is [Tsubaki no Shiraiwa]. From a manuscript of "Oga no Akikaze" (Oga Autumn Wind) held by the National Archives of Japan

Many camellias still bloom at Funakawa Port, and the camellias that bloom around Noto Mountain near the port are said to be at the northernmost limit of their natural growth in Japan, and have been designated a national natural monument

The strange rock formations at Cape Shiosezaki. If you look closely, you can see that similar strange rock formations still exist today. From a manuscript of &quot;Oga no Akikaze&quot; (Oga&#39;s Autumn Wind) held at the National Archives of Japan
The strange rock formations at Cape Shiosezaki. If you look closely, you can see that similar strange rock formations still exist today. From a manuscript of "Oga no Akikaze" (Oga's Autumn Wind) held at the National Archives of Japan

The weather was bad in Obama, so they finally went out around noon on August 27th and saw the strange rock formations at Shiosezaki. Seeing Shiosezaki for the first time, Masumi described the strange rock formations as "a sight that astonished the eyes" and "a landscape that cannot be put into words or written form."


I visited Hishiji Temple (Akagami Shrine) and reflected on the ancient legends associated with it

Nissho-ji Temple (Akagami Shrine) is depicted in the later work &quot;Oga no Shimakaze.&quot; The building at the foot of the mountain is the main hall. From there, 999 stone steps continue. The Goshado Hall is not depicted as a building on the stone steps in the illustration, but it is depicted near the mountain ridge. &quot;Oga no Shimakaze&quot; - From a manuscript in the Akita Prefectural Museum
Nissho-ji Temple (Akagami Shrine) is depicted in the later work "Oga no Shimakaze." The building at the foot of the mountain is the main hall. From there, 999 stone steps continue. The Goshado Hall is not depicted as a building on the stone steps in the illustration, but it is depicted near the mountain ridge. "Oga no Shimakaze" - From a manuscript in the Akita Prefectural Museum

Upon arriving at Monzen (Motoyama Monzen, Funakawa Port, Oga City), Masumi visits Nisshakuji Temple (present-day Akagami Shrine), located on the mountainside of Honzan (715m above sea level)

As Masumi also wrote, Nissho-ji Temple is a historic temple where the legend of Emperor Wu of Han (an ancient Chinese state) and five bats (the Red God Legend) is passed down

During the Heian period, it flourished as a center for mountain training on the Oga Peninsula, with many branch temples (temples and shrines and lodgings attached to the main temple), but by the Edo period it had become very lonely, as it is written that "only Kisshoin and Chorakuji remain."

Goshado, a nationally designated important cultural property said to have been built during the Muromachi period. ©Akita Prefecture
Goshado, a nationally designated important cultural property said to have been built during the Muromachi period. ©Akita Prefecture

Although Nisseki-ji Temple was abolished during the Meiji era,Akagami Shrine, and the Goshado Hall (a nationally designated important cultural property) built during the Muromachi period and the 999 stone steps that are said to have been built overnight by five demons remain.

*For more details on the legend of the five bats and the 999 stone steps, please refer to the article below

Akagami Shrine, Goshado Hall, and 999 Stone Steps <Information>

  • Facility name: Akagami Shrine, Goshado, and 999 stone steps
  • Address: 35 Harakawa, front of the main temple gate, Funakawa Port, Oga City, Akita Prefecture (Akagami Shrine)
  • Phone number: 0185-24-9220 (Oga City Tourism, Culture and Sports Department, Tourism Division)

Google Map


We visited the famous sights at the foot of Mt. Kanpu and continued our journey towards Noshiro

After visiting Nisshakuji Temple, Masumi returned the way he came, visiting several villages and arriving at Tenno Village, the base of his Oga journey, on August 30. After staying there for a while, on September 4 he set out along Lake Hachirogata towards Noshiro

On September 6th, we visited a group of springs called "Takinokashira" in Shibikawa ( Gori -ai Shibikawa, Oga City), located at the base of the Oga Peninsula, where clear water flows out from between the rocks

Takinotashira is one of the important sources of drinking water for Oga City today. ©Akita Prefecture Regional Development Promotion Division
Takinotashira is one of the important sources of drinking water for Oga City today. ©Akita Prefecture Regional Development Promotion Division

The area around the top of the waterfall is the tip of the lava flow that originated from Mount Kanpu, and even today, a lot of clear water flows out from between the rocks

Among the group of springs, the largest and most prominent is Takino-atama (Waterfall Head). The spring water is still used as drinking water and agricultural water in Oga City and is carefully protected

Waterfall Head <Information>

  • Facility name: Takinotashira
  • Location: 34 Magurogawa, Goriai, Oga City, Akita Prefecture (Oga City Takinogashira Water Source Purification Plant)
  • Phone number: 0185-46-4105
  • Tour times: 10:00-15:00
  • Closed: Open all year round

Google Map


The Oga Peninsula, where Masumi Sugae walked, has been equipped with 90 signposts and information boards for visitors to explore

The path that Sugae Masumi walked on the Oga Peninsula has been preserved as " Sugae Masumi's Path ," with marker posts at 83 locations that have some connection to him, and detailed explanatory signs at 8 locations

Please use this as a guide for exploring the Oga Peninsula


Link: Following the Oga Peninsula Walked by Masumi Sugae (3 Parts)


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