
[Part 1] Masumi Sugae's Walk through the Oga Peninsula – Kanpuzan and Honzan, a sacred mountain tour [Akita Prefecture]
table of contents
- 1 He left behind five travelogues of the Oga Peninsula, known as "The Five Winds of Oga."
- 2 [Autumn Breeze in Oga] Walking along the southern coast and inland of the Oga Peninsula
- 3 Visit the Oni no Kakurezato (Demon's Hidden Village) and Shintama Pond at Kanpuzan Mountain
- 4 Long ago, a woman threw herself into the Shintama Pond, where it is said a giant snake lives
- 5 From Wakimoto, through Shiosezaki, to the gate of Akagami Shrine
- 6 I visited Hishiji Temple (Akagami Shrine) and reflected on the ancient legends associated with it
- 7 We visited the famous sights at the foot of Mt. Kanpu and continued our journey towards Noshiro
- 8 The Oga Peninsula, where Masumi Sugae walked, has been equipped with 90 signposts and information boards for visitors to explore
- 9 Link: Following the Oga Peninsula Walked by Masumi Sugae (3 Parts)
SugaeMasumi was a travel writer from the Edo period who mainly traveled around northern Japan and Hokkaido, and recorded the scenery, people's lives, and customs, along with colored illustrations.
He entered Akita at the age of 48 and traveled extensively throughout the region until his death at the age of 76, leaving behind numerous writings
He is also known as Japan's first folklorist, and his book " Sugae Masumi's Travelogue, " which was kept at the Meitokukan , a domain school in Akita Prefecture , has been designated a National Important Cultural Property.
He left behind five travelogues of the Oga Peninsula, known as "The Five Winds of Oga."

Sugae Masumi first set foot on the Oga Peninsula in 1804. He traveled north from Kubota Castle town (Akita City), first visiting the southern coast of the Oga Peninsula, Mount Kanpu, and Lake Hachirogata (Ogata Village), before walking towards Noshiro (Noshiro City). He compiled his experiences in a book titled "Autumn Wind of Oga."
Masumi was so impressed with the Oga Peninsula that he visited again in 1810. His observations from that time were compiled into four books: "Spring Breeze of Oga," "Cool Breeze of Oga," "Island Breeze of Oga," and "Cold Breeze of Oga."
These five books, "Spring Breeze of Oga," "Cool Breeze of Oga," "Island Breeze of Oga," "Cold Breeze of Oga," and the first "Autumn Breeze of Oga," are collectivelythe "Five Winds of Oga"and are extremely valuable resources for understanding the Oga Peninsula during the Edo period.
Here, we will trace the footsteps of Sugae Masumi in Oga, following the "Five Winds of Oga," in three parts. The first part is "The Autumn Wind of Oga," which describes his first visit to the Oga Peninsula in 1804
The "Sugae Masumi Travelogue," a nationally designated important cultural property, is privately owned and therefore not available for public viewing. However, several copies of the "Sugae Masumi Travelogue," meticulously copied by later calligraphers, exist and can be viewed at the Akita Prefectural Museum, the National Diet Library, the National Archives of Japan, and libraries throughout Japan
This paper will be written with reference to manuscripts held by the Akita Prefectural Museum, the National Archives of Japan, the National Diet Library, and a modern Japanese translation published in 2000
Unless otherwise noted, the dates from the Edo period are those recorded by Masumi (in the old calendar)
reference
- Akita Prefectural Museum Sugae Masumi Library (Manuscript)
- National Diet Library Digital Collection Akita Series Special Collection Vol. 1 (Sugae Masumi Collection Vol. 1/Manuscript)
- National Archives of Japan: Masumi Travelogue (manuscript from 1875)
- Published by Heibonsha, Sugae Masumi Travelogue 5, edited and translated by Uchida Takeshi and Miyamoto Tsuneichi, published on August 9, 2000
*The quotations from Masumi Sugae's writings are based on "Masumi Sugae's Travels, edited and translated by Takeshi Uchida and Tsuneichi Miyamoto, published by Heibonsha."
[Autumn Breeze in Oga]Walking along the southern coast and inland of the Oga Peninsula
On August 14, 1804, Masumi left his lodgings in the castle town of Kubota, the seat of the Kubota Domain (Akita Domain), and spent the night at Tsuchizaki Port (Tsuchizaka Port, Akita City). The following day, on the 15th, he set out on foot towards the Oga Peninsula
Our first destination was Tenno Village (Tenno, Katagami City), located along Lake Hachirogata, and we used it as our base for a while to explore the Oga Peninsula
Lake Hachirogata was originally a lake located at the base of the Oga Peninsula, but most of its surface has now been reclaimed, leaving only a small portion that remains as Lake Hachiro (Ogata Village)

Visit the Oni no Kakurezato (Demon's Hidden Village) and Shintama Pond at Kanpuzan Mountain
On August 21st, I climbed Mount Kanpu (elevation 335m) and was deeply moved by the scenery
On the way down the mountain, we visited a place called "Ishikura" or "Kakurego," where many rocks have fallen and piled up like a mountain. This place is still a tourist attraction known as "Oni no Kakurezato" (Demon's Hidden Village), and it is said to be the place where demons lived.
Mount Kanpu was originally a volcano that was active from about 30,000 years ago to about 10,000 years ago, but it is currently inactive and is not registered as an active volcano
The "Demon's Hidden Village" was formed when lava, pushed out from underground during an ancient volcanic eruption, formed a mountain-like structure that collapsed under its own weight. Inside, there is a space about the size of three tatami mats, which is said to be the dwelling place of the demons
![[Demon's Hidden Village]. Almost unchanged since the Edo period. © National Federation of Geological Survey Associations](https://jp.neft.asia/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/617ecee9302f90ace1fb00d94ece5bfa.jpg)
The space existed in the Edo period, and Masumi and his party "all just stuck their heads in and peered in," finding it so creepy that no one wanted to go inside
It is written that nearby there was a stone called "Suzurimizu" (inkstone-shaped stone with a hollow in it that held water), and this inkstone is thought to be the "Kōbō Daishi's inkstone stone," which is said to still be filled with water and never runs dry
Demon's Hidden Village/Kanpuzan <Information>
- Facility name: Demon's Hidden Village/Kanpuzan
- Address: 62-1 Kanpuzan, Wakimoto Tominaga, Oga City, Akita Prefecture
- Phone number: 0185-25-3055
Google Map
Long ago, a woman threw herself into the Shintama Pond, where it is said a giant snake lives
On the way down the mountain , we stopped by Shin-Tama Pond at the foot of Kanpu Mountain, where it is said that a woman named Tamahime threw herself into the water long ago

Shintama Pond is still known as a viewpoint of Mt. Kanpu, but the legend that is passed down today is slightly different from the story Masumi heard
According to " Oga Folktales ," a girl named Otama, who was courted by the village headman, threw herself into a pond to escape him and transformed into a giant snake .
There is another legend about Shin-Tama Pond. The original Tama Pond was located in the crater of Mount Kanpu, but when the water dried up, the giant snake that lived there moved to a pond at the foot of the mountain
Shintama Pond <Information>
- Facility name: Shintama Pond
- Location: Oga City, Akita Prefecture, Oga Nakatakigawa Kanpuzan Yokodori
- Phone number: 0185-24-4700 (Oga City Tourism Association)

From Wakimoto, through Shiosezaki, to the gate of Akagami Shrine

On August 24th, we went to Wakimoto (Wakimoto, Oga City) on the coast and visited the medieval castle ruins [ Wakimoto Castle Ruins ] (Masumi calls it Ohira Castle) at Oibanasaki
From Cape Ikuhanazaki, we could see Mount Chokai, Tobishima (Sakata City, Yamagata Prefecture), and Mount Taihei (Akita City, Akita Prefecture), which gave the castle its name, and I was captivated by the view
The next day, we traveled west along the coast, passing through Funakawa (Funakawa Port, Oga City), Onagawa (Onnagawa, Funakawa Port, Oga City), and Tsubaki-no-ura (Tsubaki, Funakawa Port, Oga City), where camellias grow abundantly, before arriving at Kohama -no-ura (Kohama, Funakawa Port, Oga City) , the southernmost port on the Oga Peninsula where Shiosezaki is located .
![Tsubaki-no-ura is designated as a national natural monument as the northernmost camellia. The white cliff on the left page is [Tsubaki no Shiraiwa]. From a manuscript of "Oga no Akikaze" (Oga Autumn Wind) held by the National Archives of Japan](https://jp.neft.asia/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/2fc6ebe37f9ccc4329c0d9bd71159db8-750x600.jpg)
Many camellias still bloom at Funakawa Port, and the camellias that bloom around Noto Mountain near the port are said to be at the northernmost limit of their natural growth in Japan, and have been designated a national natural monument

The weather was bad in Obama, so they finally went out around noon on August 27th and saw the strange rock formations at Shiosezaki. Seeing Shiosezaki for the first time, Masumi described the strange rock formations as "a sight that astonished the eyes" and "a landscape that cannot be put into words or written form."
I visited Hishiji Temple (Akagami Shrine) and reflected on the ancient legends associated with it

Upon arriving at Monzen (Motoyama Monzen, Funakawa Port, Oga City), Masumi visits Nisshakuji Temple (present-day Akagami Shrine), located on the mountainside of Honzan (715m above sea level)
As Masumi also wrote, Nissho-ji Temple is a historic temple where the legend of Emperor Wu of Han (an ancient Chinese state) and five bats (the Red God Legend) is passed down
During the Heian period, it flourished as a center for mountain training on the Oga Peninsula, with many branch temples (temples and shrines and lodgings attached to the main temple), but by the Edo period it had become very lonely, as it is written that "only Kisshoin and Chorakuji remain."

Although Nisseki-ji Temple was abolished during the Meiji era,Akagami Shrine, and the Goshado Hall (a nationally designated important cultural property) built during the Muromachi period and the 999 stone steps that are said to have been built overnight by five demons remain.
*For more details on the legend of the five bats and the 999 stone steps, please refer to the article below
Akagami Shrine, Goshado Hall, and 999 Stone Steps <Information>
- Facility name: Akagami Shrine, Goshado, and 999 stone steps
- Address: 35 Harakawa, front of the main temple gate, Funakawa Port, Oga City, Akita Prefecture (Akagami Shrine)
- Phone number: 0185-24-9220 (Oga City Tourism, Culture and Sports Department, Tourism Division)
Google Map
We visited the famous sights at the foot of Mt. Kanpu and continued our journey towards Noshiro
After visiting Nisshakuji Temple, Masumi returned the way he came, visiting several villages and arriving at Tenno Village, the base of his Oga journey, on August 30. After staying there for a while, on September 4 he set out along Lake Hachirogata towards Noshiro
On September 6th, we visited a group of springs called "Takinokashira" in Shibikawa ( Gori -ai Shibikawa, Oga City), located at the base of the Oga Peninsula, where clear water flows out from between the rocks

The area around the top of the waterfall is the tip of the lava flow that originated from Mount Kanpu, and even today, a lot of clear water flows out from between the rocks
Among the group of springs, the largest and most prominent is Takino-atama (Waterfall Head). The spring water is still used as drinking water and agricultural water in Oga City and is carefully protected
Waterfall Head <Information>
- Facility name: Takinotashira
- Location: 34 Magurogawa, Goriai, Oga City, Akita Prefecture (Oga City Takinogashira Water Source Purification Plant)
- Phone number: 0185-46-4105
- Tour times: 10:00-15:00
- Closed: Open all year round
Google Map
The Oga Peninsula, where Masumi Sugae walked, has been equipped with 90 signposts and information boards for visitors to explore
The path that Sugae Masumi walked on the Oga Peninsula has been preserved as " Sugae Masumi's Path ," with marker posts at 83 locations that have some connection to him, and detailed explanatory signs at 8 locations
Please use this as a guide for exploring the Oga Peninsula









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