This site is an online media that delivers all sorts of trivia about the six Tohoku prefectures, from sightseeing and gourmet spots to local customs, history, and more
From April to June 2025, a TV anime called "Zatsu Tabi -That's Journey-" was broadcast. The story follows Chika Suzugamori, a female college student who wants to become a manga artist, as she broadens her horizons through a spontaneous (haphazard) journey
Although the anime has already finished airing, the original manga is still ongoing. introduce the journey to Hagurosan Dewa Shrine (Tsuruoka City, Yamagata Prefecture) depicted in the 38th chapter of the manga, "Go Beyond the Past! Become the Person You Are Now." With this episode, Chika has finally traveled to all six prefectures of the Tohoku region . This will probably be the final installment of this article series.
*This contains spoilers for the manga, so please be careful if you haven't read it yet.
Click here for an article about the first journey of the TV anime, "The First 1225 Steps" (Aizuwakamatsu City, Fukushima Prefecture).
Click here for the article about the first half of the 9th trip, "Finishing off with a visit to the hot springs and the first sunrise" (Aomori Prefecture)
It should be noted that the term "north" encompasses many different places, but it seems that the only remaining northern destinations were central Hokkaido, Yamagata Prefecture, and Saitama Prefecture
I'm using a map to mark places I've traveled to, and I've colored in Tottori Prefecture, where I recently visited, so now 34 places are red. It feels like I've managed to cover a good mix of nearby and far-off places. pic.twitter.com/4MGG6KwGRa
First, the Joetsu Shinkansen "Toki" from Tokyo Station. It is clearly stated that I boarded Toki 301, bound for Niigata, departing at 6:08 AM. Since this trip took place in mid-April 2024, referring to the March 2024 timetable I have, Toki 301 arrives at Niigata Station at 8:10 AM, approximately two hours later.
Joetsu Shinkansen "Toki"
From Niigata Station, the "Inaho" limited express train on the Hakushin Line and Uetsu Main Line . The Inaho connects Niigata Station to Sakata Station in Yamagata Prefecture, or to Akita Station in Akita Prefecture. There is an article explaining the history of the Inaho, so please take a look for reference.
The "Inaho No. 1" train that Chika was on departed Niigata at 8:22 AM bound for Akita. It arrived at Tsuruoka Station in Tsuruoka City, Yamagata Prefecture, at 10:12 AM, 1 hour and 50 minutes later, where she disembarked
The article about the first journey in the anime how to purchase the tickets needed to ride the Shinkansen , so please refer to it. The limited express "Inaho" is not a Shinkansen, but in addition to the basic fare ticket, a limited express ticket is required to ride it, and the method of purchasing the limited express ticket is basically the same as for the Shinkansen. If you are taking this trip with a paper ticket...
A train ticket from Tokyo Station to Tsuruoka Station
Shinkansen limited express ticket from Tokyo Station to Niigata Station
Limited express ticket from Niigata Station to Tsuruoka Station
The above three items are necessary (this only applies to the outbound journey; if you plan to use the train for the return trip, you will naturally need a separate ticket for that as well)
*Previously, a "transfer discount" was available for passengers transferring between the Joetsu Shinkansen and the "Inaho" on the same day, which reduced the limited express fare for the Inaho. However, this discount was discontinued in March 2024. While the discontinuation of the discount is regrettable, it also means that passengers no longer need to worry about whether a discount applies when purchasing their limited express tickets
As an aside, while Shinkansen express tickets and express tickets become invalid if you get off at an intermediate station, regular train tickets allow for stopovers. In this itinerary, it would be possible to exit the ticket gate at Niigata Station and do some sightseeing in Niigata separately
I took a bus to Mount Haguro
The post mentions that the journey from Tsuruoka Station involved a 30-minute bus ride southeast, costing 690 yen. However, this information doesn't specify which bus to take, so further investigation reveals that the bus company is Shonai Kotsu. the Haguro/Gassan line bus bound for "Hagurosancho" from the bus stop in front of Tsuruoka Station and got off at the Otori bus stop.
Great Torii Gate
According to the current timetable (as of early March 2026), if you take the bus departing at 10:43, you will arrive at Otorii at 11:10. The fare remains unchanged at 690 yen
After getting off the bus, Chika walked east and arrived near her destination, where she first decided to eat. She had soba noodles made with 100% buckwheat flour from the foot of Mount Gassan. The restaurant is believed to be called "Oyasumi-dokoro Zuisin-mon". Her final destination was the Hagurosan Dewa Sanzan Shrine.
Incidentally, Chika got off the bus at the "Otorii" bus stop, but if you are walking to Dewa Shrine from the foot of Mount Haguro, it is more common to get off at the "Zuishinmon" bus stop
Yamagata Prefecture has three mountains: Hagurosan, Gassan, and Yudonosan, which are collectively known as the Dewa Sanzan
Mount Haguro is a mountain where one prays for happiness in this life (present), Mount Gassan is a mountain where one prays for peace and salvation after death (past), and Mount Yudono is a mountain where one prays for rebirth (future).
It is said that..
Each of the three mountains has its own shrine, and the one on Mount Haguro is called Dewa Shrine or Dewa Sanzan Shrine. It enshrines two deities: Ideha-no-kami and Ukanomitama-no-mikoto
Furthermore, since it is impossible to visit Mount Gassan and Mount Yudono during the winter, the deities of the three mountains are enshrined together at Dewa Shrine on the summit of Mount Haguro. In other words, Dewa Shrine holds a representative position among the shrines of the three mountains
During her first trip, Chika visited the Hagurosan Yugami Shrine in Aizuwakamatsu City, and as the name Hagurosan suggests, Yugami Shrine and Dewa Shrine are closely related. Specifically, they both enshrine the same Ukanomitama-no-Mikoto as their main deity
Information <Resting Place Zuisinmon>
Name: Rest Stop Zuisin Gate
Address: 5 Temukai, Haguro-machi, Tsuruoka City, Yamagata Prefecture 997-0211
The approach to Dewa Shrine has an astonishing 2,446 steps. Yugami Shrine, which appeared in the first part of the journey, had 1,225 steps, so this is almost double that. Chika's travel story began with the 1,225 steps. It is described that she had always wanted to climb the steps of Dewa Shrine, which is like the main shrine of Yugami Shrine, someday.
Chika is also surprised in the story, but the stairs start with going down
Mount Haguro Five-Story Pagoda
Then, after passing the Hagurosan Five-Storied Pagoda, a national treasure said to have been built by Taira no Masakado in the mid-Heian period (the current pagoda is said to have been rebuilt about 600 years ago), the real climb begins. Chika took three hours to reach the top
As you can see from the fact that the bus I took from Tsuruoka Station was headed to the summit of Mt. Haguro, and that I also took the bus back, there is a bus route to the summit of Mt. Haguro where Dewa Shrine is located. Since there is a bus route, there is also a road, so it is possible to visit by private car. However, you will need to use a toll road , you will need winter tiresIn winter, the stairs become impassable due to snow , so you will inevitably have to go up by bus or car.
Therefore, it is possible to visit the shrine without climbing all 2,446 steps, but it seems that many people, like Chika, choose to walk to the shrine
I climbed Hagurosan Shrine this time because my journey began with the 1225 steps of Hagurosan Yugami Shrine in Aizuwakamatsu, Fukushima, and this is the original. I was trembling with the thought that I absolutely had to go someday to climb the 2446 steps... but I'm glad I made it. There were flat areas without steps and rest spots along the way, so it was easy to climb. I recommend it. Definitely try the 2446 steps. pic.twitter.com/sgCScVB4dJ
After descending the mountain, Chika has dinner at a restaurant called "Sake to Meshi Suehiro" near Tsuruoka Station. She orders a small portion of chicken ramen for 680 yen (it seems to be 730 yen as of March 2026). Furthermore, inspired by the other customers in the restaurant, she starts drinking alone. She enjoys deep-fried prawns and squid sashimi
For more information about Tsuruoka City's food culture, please refer to the following article
Although I was slightly tipsy, I somehow managed to secure a room at a city hotel (it seems to be modeled after the Super Hotel Yamagata-Tsuruoka)
The trip concludes with a description of how, after an overnight stay, they enjoyed the Tsuruoka Cherry Blossom Festival at Tsurugaoka Castle Ruins (Tsuruoka Park)
The cherry blossoms are so beautiful. Spring is wonderful. The samurai warriors look like they're having fun too. It's been so long since I've been to a festival like this that it's starting to feel like New Year's Day. lol pic.twitter.com/987F3i8lRy
Tsurugaoka Castle served as the main castle of the Shonai Domain and the residence of the Sakai clan, the domain's lords, for approximately 250 years, from 1622, when Sakai Tadakatsu (grandson of Sakai Tadatsugu, known as one of the Four Heavenly Kings of Tokugawa) took control, until the abolition of the feudal domains. The site has been developed into a park and has been selected as one of Japan's Top 100 Cherry Blossom Viewing Spots. Every year, the cherry blossoms bloom in early April, reaching their peak around mid-April, and a cherry blossom festival is held mainly on weekends after the blossoms open
Please note that it is a bit of a distance from Tsuruoka Station, so it is recommended to take the Shonai Kotsu bus, the Tsuruoka-Yunohama line bus bound for Yunohama Onsen, and get off at Tsuruoka City Hall
Information <Sake & Food Suehiro>
Name: Sake & Rice Suehiro
Address: 6-25 Suehiro-cho, Tsuruoka City, Yamagata Prefecture 997-0015
This section introduces ways to access Tsuruoka City other than those described in the story (information as of early March 2026)
First, if you're coming to Tsuruoka City by train, the only railway line that passes through Tsuruoka City is the Uetsu Main Line, and even including neighboring municipalities, the only line is the JR Rikuu West Line (Oku no Hosomichi Mogami River Line). If you're coming to Tsuruoka City by train, you'll definitely be taking a train on the Uetsu Main Line from either the Niigata area or the Sakata/Akita area
Regarding air travel, Shonai Airport is located across Tsuruoka City and Sakata City. It takes just under 30 minutes by limousine bus from Shonai Airport to Tsuruoka Station. The only flights to Shonai Airport are operated by All Nippon Airways (ANA) from Haneda Airport in Tokyo. Therefore, to arrive by air from outside the Tokyo metropolitan area, you will need to transit through Haneda Airport.
Highway buses depart from the Tokyo metropolitan area (Saitama City, Tokyo Station, Shinjuku, Ikebukuro Station, Yokohama Station, etc.), Sendai City, Sendai Airport, and Yamagata City. While it is possible to travel between Yamagata Station and Tsuruoka Station by train, using the highway bus is recommended. One option is to take the Yamagata Shinkansen to Yamagata Station and then transfer to a highway bus from there.
To summarize the information presented so far, public transportation that goes directly to Tsuruoka City only operates from Niigata Prefecture, the Kanto region, and the Tohoku region . If you are traveling from any other region, for example from Osaka City,
I transferred at Haneda Airport to get to Shonai Airport
I went to Sendai Airport by plane, and then took a highway bus to Tsuruoka Station
Take the Tokaido Shinkansen and Joetsu Shinkansen to Niigata Station, then take the Hakushin Line and Uetsu Main Line (such as the "Inaho" train) to Tsuruoka Station
Take the Tokaido Shinkansen and Tohoku Shinkansen to Sendai Station, then take a highway bus to Tsuruoka Station
Take the Tokaido Shinkansen and then the Yamagata Shinkansen to Yamagata Station, then take a highway bus to Tsuruoka Station
These measures are necessary
Regarding expressways, the Yamagata Expressway, which extends from the direction of Yamagata City, and the Nihonkai Tohoku Expressway, which connects Niigata City and Akita City, both pass through Tsuruoka City, and multiple interchanges are located there. Access to the city by private car is relatively easy
Conclusion
Having finally conquered all six prefectures of Tohoku—Fukushima, Miyagi, Aomori, Iwate, Akita, and Yamagata—this article series will likely come to an end. However, Chika's travels will continue. I hope that future articles will continue to depict journeys that will inspire readers to travel themselves. With that, I will conclude this article.
