[Tokyo] Let's travel to the stage of Chika Umino's "March Comes in Like a Lion"!

Chika Umino's popular comic "March Comes in Like a Lion" has been adapted into a live-action film starring Kamiki Ryunosuke, with the first part released on March 18th, 2017, and the second part on April 22nd. It was also made into a TV anime last year. The story is mainly set around the Sumida River in Chuo Ward, Tokyo. Why not take a trip to Rokugatsu-cho and Mikazuki-cho, the setting of the story of "March Comes in Like a Lion," imagining yourself as the main character, Kiriyama Rei?

Let's go to "Rokugatsu-cho" where Kiriyama Rei lives

The protagonist of "March Comes in Like a Lion" is a high school student and professional shogi player, Kiriyama Rei. For various reasons, Rei has always closed himself off from those around him. However, one day, he meets the three Kawamoto sisters who live in March Town. Through his interactions with the eldest, Akari, the second, Hinata, and the youngest, Momo, he discovers that the Kawamoto sisters also harbor deep emotional scars. Through his encounters with them, the protagonist, Kiriyama Rei, grows both as a professional shogi player and as a person.
The apartment where Kiriyama lives alone is located in "Rokugatsu-cho," a neighborhood modeled after the intersection of the Sumida River and Kamejima River in Shinkawa 2-chome, Chuo Ward. Explore familiar sights from "March Comes in Like a Lion," including Takahashi Bridge, the Reiganjima Water Level Observatory, Chuo Bridge, and the Sumida River. Let's start from Hatchobori Station!
(Nearest stations: JR Keiyo Line Hatchobori Station, Tokyo Metro Hibiya Line Hatchobori Station)

1. Takahashi

If you walk from Hatchobori Station towards Kamejima River, you will come across Takahashi Bridge. This is the bridge that Kiriyama Rei crosses when going back and forth between his apartment and the Shogi Hall in Shinanomachi. The handrail in the photo is Takahashi Bridge, and the Kamejima River flows underneath. Rei's apartment is located to the left of the Kamejima River floodgate, which can be seen small in the background of the photo. Now, although it is not visible in the photo, let's walk along the road that runs to the left of Kamejima River and head to the spot where it meets the Sumida River

2. Yeongamdo Water Level Observatory

Located at the intersection of the Sumida River and Kamejima River is the Reijukushima Water Level Observatory, which is also familiar from the cover of the "March Comes in Like a Lion" comic. Its design is like a work of art, but it is an observatory for measuring the tide levels in Tokyo Bay. It is no longer in use. It is a location that often appears in the story of "March Comes in Like a Lion." It seems that Rei's apartment is located behind this observatory

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3. Chuo Bridge

It's located very close to Rei's apartment. Going up the stairs leads to the walkway of the Chuo Bridge. The road next to it leads to a promenade called the Sumida River Terrace. The Reijima Water Level Observatory mentioned earlier is located on the right, just across the road

Chuo Ohashi Bridge connects Mutsuki Town, where Rei's apartment is, to Mikazuki Town, where the Kawamoto sisters live. The comics and anime TV series depict the bridge at various times of the day. You can see numerous boats, including water buses and pleasure boats, passing under the bridge. The bridge is also beautifully lit up from dusk until 10 p.m. The film also beautifully depicts the scenery around the bridge.
Incidentally, if you walk straight for about three minutes after crossing the bridge, you'll see the Maruetsu supermarket on your left. It's the model for the Maruei supermarket where Rei shops in the comics and anime, and its exterior is so similar you'll be surprised. To reach Mikazuki Town, where the Kawamoto sisters live, cross the bridge and walk along the promenade on your right.

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4. Sumida River

The Sumida River is the river that the water bus "Hotaruna" travels on. This is the view looking towards Tsukiji from Chuo Bridge. The bank on the left is Ishikawajima, and this riverbank appears in scenes such as when Rei returns to his apartment and when he talks with Hinata, the second of the Kawamoto sisters. Mikazuki Town is modeled after Ishikawajima and the area that is now connected to the mainland. Let's walk along the riverbank and head towards Mikazuki Town

There was a "Mikazukicho" in Tsukudajima

The setting of "Mikazuki-cho" was inspired by Tsukudajima in Chuo Ward, Tokyo. Tokugawa Ieyasu, the first shogun of the Edo shogunate, called in the fishermen of Tsukuda Village in Osaka, who had advanced fishing techniques, and created the island by reclaiming land from the sea for them. It was once a small island, but with the progress of reclamation in Tokyo Bay, it is now connected to the surrounding Ishikawajima and Tsukishima islands. Let's take a walk across Tsukuda Kobashi Bridge, a familiar sight from "March Comes in Like a Lion."
(Nearest stations: Tsukishima Station on the Tokyo Metro Yurakucho Line, Tsukishima Station on the Toei Oedo Line)

Tsukuda Bridge

The Kawamoto sisters' home is the Japanese confectionery shop "Mikazukido," located near Tsukuda Kobashi Bridge. It's the bridge Kiriyama Rei always crosses when visiting them and when returning to his apartment in Rokugatsu-cho. Tsukuda Kobashi Bridge is featured in the key visuals for "March Comes in Like a Lion" and appears as an everyday scene in the manga, TV anime, and live-action film. The river flowing under the bridge connects to the Sumida River. Incidentally, the model for the "Mikazukido" building is "Tenan," a long-established tsukudani (simmered food) shop that has been in business since the Edo period. The area is also home to Sumiyoshi Shrine, Tsukuda Park, and the water gate, all familiar sights from "March Comes in Like a Lion," making this truly Mikazuki-cho. A visit here will allow you to fully immerse yourself in the world of "March Comes in Like a Lion."

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If your walk from Takahashi to Tsukudajima makes you hungry, why not end your trip with some monjayaki in Tsukishima?

End your trip with some monjayaki in Tsukishima!

A little over a five-minute walk from Tsukuda Kobashi Bridge is a shopping street called "Monja Street." This is the shopping street where the Kawamoto sisters from "March Comes in Like a Lion" come to buy daily necessities. There are many shops with a Showa-era atmosphere, as well as many "monjayaki" restaurants. Tsukishima is famous for "monjayaki." In "March Comes in Like a Lion," a restaurant called "Monja Jiro" appears, where Kiriyama Rei and the Kawamoto sisters eat "monjayaki," and the restaurant that served as the model for this is "Monja Taro." Let's go and check it out

"Monja Taro" is a popular restaurant among fans, with its exterior, interior, and menu all depicted as "Monja Jiro" in "March Comes in Like a Lion." "Monjayaki" is a dish that dates back to 1819 during the Edo period. To make it, first apply oil to a heated iron plate. Next, grill the seafood and other ingredients. Once the ingredients are cooked, form a circle with the ingredients, creating a cavity in the middle. Pour flour dissolved in water into the cavity. After that, mix well and press the mixture onto the iron plate with a spatula while cooking and eating. While ingredients are typically meat, fish, and vegetables, monjayaki with strawberries has recently become available

Incidentally, the most popular dish at Monja Taro is the Salmon Mayo Monjayaki. It's a type of monjayaki made by seasoning salmon fillets with butter and mayonnaise and adding ingredients such as cabbage. It's self-service, so you can make it yourself, but if you're not confident in your ability to cook it well, the restaurant staff will cook it for you. How about having lunch on your March Comes in Like a Lion journey?
Access:
Monja Taro (Address: 1-24-10 Tsukishima, Chuo-ku, Tokyo Access: 3-minute walk from Exit 7 of Tsukishima Station on the Tokyo Metro Yurakucho Line and Toei Oedo Line)

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Our March Comes in Like a Lion journey started from Hatchobori Station, but this time we'll finish in Tsukishima. Tsukishima Station is convenient for returning from Monja Street. Even if you're not a fan of March Comes in Like a Lion, you'll definitely enjoy watching the water buses and houseboats passing by on the Sumida River and Kamejima River, and the retro atmosphere of Tsukudajima and Tsukishima

Jun Nambara

Writer, screenwriter, animation producer. He wrote and directed the drama CD ``The Rose of Versailles,'' supervised by Riyoko Ikeda, and has written many books, including ``Onmyoji ``Abe Seimei'' (Futami Shobo). He is also attracting attention as a travel writer who works as a tour conductor on weekends. His hobby is visiting the sacred places of anime, dramas, and movies.