[Tokyo] Travel to the setting of Chika Umino's "March Comes in Like a Lion"!

Chika Umino's popular comic "March Comes in Like a Lion" has been adapted into a live-action film starring Kamiki Ryunosuke, with the first part released on March 18th, 2017, and the second part on April 22nd. It was also made into a TV anime last year. The story is mainly set around the Sumida River in Chuo Ward, Tokyo. Why not take a trip to Rokugatsu-cho and Mikazuki-cho, the setting of the story of "March Comes in Like a Lion," imagining yourself as the main character, Kiriyama Rei?

Let's go to "Rokugatsu-cho" where Kiriyama Rei lives

The protagonist of "March Comes in Like a Lion" is Rei Kiriyama, a high school student who is also a professional shogi player. For various reasons, Rei has kept his heart closed off to those around him, but through a certain event, he becomes acquainted with the Kawamoto sisters who live in Sangatsu-cho. Through his interactions with the eldest sister Akari, the second sister Hinata, and the youngest sister Momo, he learns that the Kawamoto sisters also carry deep wounds in their hearts. Eventually, Rei Kiriyama grows both as a professional shogi player and as a person, thanks to his encounter with them.
The apartment where Rei Kiriyama lives alone is in "Rokugatsu-cho". This town is modeled after the area in Shinkawa 2-chome, Chuo-ku, where the Sumida River and Kamejima River intersect. Let's take a journey through the familiar scenery from "March Comes in Like a Lion," including Takahashi, Reiganjima Water Level Observation Station, Chuo Ohashi Bridge, and the Sumida River. Okay, let's depart from Hatchobori Station!
(Nearest stations: JR Keiyo Line Hatchobori Station, Tokyo Metro Hibiya Line Hatchobori Station)

1. Takahashi

If you walk from Hatchobori Station towards Kamejima River, you will come across Takahashi Bridge. This is the bridge that Kiriyama Rei crosses when going back and forth between his apartment and the Shogi Hall in Shinanomachi. The handrail in the photo is Takahashi Bridge, and the Kamejima River flows underneath. Rei's apartment is located to the left of the Kamejima River floodgate, which can be seen small in the background of the photo. Now, although it is not visible in the photo, let's walk along the road that runs to the left of Kamejima River and head to the spot where it meets the Sumida River

2. Yeongamdo Water Level Observatory

Located at the intersection of the Sumida River and Kamejima River is the Reijukushima Water Level Observatory, which is also familiar from the cover of the "March Comes in Like a Lion" comic. Its design is like a work of art, but it is an observatory for measuring the tide levels in Tokyo Bay. It is no longer in use. It is a location that often appears in the story of "March Comes in Like a Lion." It seems that Rei's apartment is located behind this observatory

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3. Chuo Bridge

It's located very close to Rei's apartment. Going up the stairs leads to the walkway of the Chuo Bridge. The road next to it leads to a promenade called the Sumida River Terrace. The Reijima Water Level Observatory mentioned earlier is located on the right, just across the road

Chuo Ohashi Bridge connects Rokugatsu-cho, where Rei's apartment is located, to Mikazuki-cho, where the Kawamoto sisters live. In the comics and TV anime, Chuo Ohashi Bridge is depicted at various times of day. You can enjoy the sight of many boats, such as water buses and houseboats, passing beneath the bridge. Also, Chuo Ohashi Bridge is beautifully lit up from dusk until 10 pm. The scenery around Chuo Ohashi Bridge was also beautifully depicted in the movie.
Incidentally, if you walk straight for about 3 minutes after crossing Chuo Ohashi Bridge, you will see the Maruetsu supermarket on your left. It is the model for the supermarket "Maruei" where Rei shops in the comics and anime, and its exterior is depicted to an astonishing degree. To get to Mikazuki-cho, where the Kawamoto sisters live, walk along the promenade on the right after crossing the bridge.

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4. Sumida River

The Sumida River is the river that the water bus "Hotaruna" travels on. This is the view looking towards Tsukiji from Chuo Bridge. The bank on the left is Ishikawajima, and this riverbank appears in scenes such as when Rei returns to his apartment and when he talks with Hinata, the second of the Kawamoto sisters. Mikazuki Town is modeled after Ishikawajima and the area that is now connected to the mainland. Let's walk along the riverbank and head towards Mikazuki Town

There was a "Mikazukicho" in Tsukudajima

The setting for "Mikazuki-cho" is Tsukudajima in Chuo Ward, Tokyo. It was created by Tokugawa Ieyasu, the first shogun of the Edo shogunate, who invited fishermen from Tsukuda Village in Osaka, who possessed advanced fishing techniques, and reclaimed land from the sea for their benefit. Once a small island, land reclamation in Tokyo Bay has progressed, and it is now connected to the mainland by the surrounding Ishikawajima and Tsukishima islands. Let's take a walk across Tsukuda Kobashi, a familiar sight from "March Comes in Like a Lion."
(Nearest stations: Tsukishima Station on the Tokyo Metro Yurakucho Line, Tsukishima Station on the Toei Oedo Line)

Tsukuda Bridge

The Kawamoto sisters' home is the Japanese confectionery shop "Mikazukido," located near Tsukuda Kobashi Bridge. It's the bridge Kiriyama Rei always crosses when visiting them and when returning to his apartment in Rokugatsu-cho. Tsukuda Kobashi Bridge is featured in the key visuals for "March Comes in Like a Lion" and appears as an everyday scene in the manga, TV anime, and live-action film. The river flowing under the bridge connects to the Sumida River. Incidentally, the model for the "Mikazukido" building is "Tenan," a long-established tsukudani (simmered food) shop that has been in business since the Edo period. The area is also home to Sumiyoshi Shrine, Tsukuda Park, and the water gate, all familiar sights from "March Comes in Like a Lion," making this truly Mikazuki-cho. A visit here will allow you to fully immerse yourself in the world of "March Comes in Like a Lion."

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If your walk from Takahashi to Tsukudajima makes you hungry, why not end your trip with some monjayaki in Tsukishima?

End your trip with some monjayaki in Tsukishima!

A little over a five-minute walk from Tsukuda Kobashi Bridge is a shopping street called "Monja Street." This is the shopping street where the Kawamoto sisters from "March Comes in Like a Lion" come to buy daily necessities. There are many shops with a Showa-era atmosphere, as well as many "monjayaki" restaurants. Tsukishima is famous for "monjayaki." In "March Comes in Like a Lion," a restaurant called "Monja Jiro" appears, where Kiriyama Rei and the Kawamoto sisters eat "monjayaki," and the restaurant that served as the model for this is "Monja Taro." Let's go and check it out

"Monja Taro" is a popular restaurant among fans, with its exterior, interior, and menu all depicted as "Monja Jiro" in "March Comes in Like a Lion." "Monjayaki" is a dish that dates back to 1819 during the Edo period. To make it, first apply oil to a heated iron plate. Next, grill the seafood and other ingredients. Once the ingredients are cooked, form a circle with the ingredients, creating a cavity in the middle. Pour flour dissolved in water into the cavity. After that, mix well and press the mixture onto the iron plate with a spatula while cooking and eating. While ingredients are typically meat, fish, and vegetables, monjayaki with strawberries has recently become available

By the way, the most popular item at "Monja Taro" is the "Salmon Mayo Monja." It's a type of monjayaki made with salmon fillets seasoned with butter and mayonnaise, and topped with ingredients such as cabbage. It's self-service, so you make it yourself, but if you're not confident in your ability to make it, the staff will cook it for you. How about having it for lunch on your "March Comes in Like a Lion" trip?
Access:
"Monja Taro" (Address: 1-24-10 Tsukishima, Chuo-ku, Tokyo Access: 3-minute walk from Exit 7 of Tsukishima Station on the Tokyo Metro Yurakucho Line and Toei Oedo Line)

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Our March Comes in Like a Lion journey started from Hatchobori Station, but this time we'll finish in Tsukishima. Tsukishima Station is convenient for returning from Monja Street. Even if you're not a fan of March Comes in Like a Lion, you'll definitely enjoy watching the water buses and houseboats passing by on the Sumida River and Kamejima River, and the retro atmosphere of Tsukudajima and Tsukishima

Jun Nambara

Author, scriptwriter, and animation producer. He wrote and directed the drama CD "The Rose of Versailles" supervised by Riyoko Ikeda, and has published many books, including "Onmyoji Abe no Seimei" (Futami Shobo). He is also attracting attention as a travel writer who works as a tour conductor on weekends. His hobby is pilgrimages to sacred sites of anime, dramas, and movies