[Part 2] The Date Family's "Food" Strategy! Masamune's Inherited Spirit of Hospitality | A Warning Against Arrogance and Full-Scale Hospitality for the Shogun

Were the Date family's everyday meals also extravagant?

In the previous section, we looked at an example of the lavish New Year's cuisine of the Sendai Date family, but did they also enjoy extravagant meals in their daily lives?

In conclusion, even daimyo (feudal lords) often ate surprisingly modest meals on a daily basis, and this was certainly the case for Masamune, the first lord of the Sendai domain

While he is often associated with gourmet food these days, it's also striking to see that he approached food not only as a Sengoku-era warlord but also as a tea master. This attitude suggests that he never forgot to be grateful for the ingredients and the people involved in the food industry

Here are two anecdotes that illustrate Masamune's character

Discussions about "what to eat" on the battlefield

There's also this story about Masamune and food

In 1613, the coming-of- age ceremony for Masamune's fifth son, Umatsumaru (Date Munetsuna), was held at the residence of his long-serving confidant, Moniwa (Oniwa) Tsunamoto

However, the next day, Masamune complained about the food served at the Moniwa residence. It was a simple menu consisting of soybean rice , taro soup , and grilled raw sardines

However, this was the very menu that Masamune, who was not yet twenty years old at the time of the war about thirty years ago, had told Tsunamoto, "When peace returns, I want to eat my fill."

As a retainer, Tsunamoto deliberately served these dishes with the hope of reminding Masamune of his original aspirations

It is said that Masamune, ashamed of his own arrogance, offered a sincere apology to Tsunamoto

The menu described above may seem simple at first glance, and it would likely have been unsatisfying for Masamune in his prime, when he was dominating the Tohoku region

However, this wasn't necessarily the case during the Sengoku period (Warring States period)that soybeans used in soybean ricewere not consumed much by humans because they were an important feed for warhorses.

taro root soup, most of the soups available on the battlefield at that time were seasoned with salt or rice bran paste, so a proper miso soup was a luxurious treat.

Furthermorefresh sardineswere a great treat for Masamune, who was born and raised in Yonezawa, an inland area, where salted and dried sardines were the norm during his youth.

These various experiences and reflections related to food were passed down as important teachings of the Sendai Date family, beginning with Masamune

Was Date Masamune really a "cooking enthusiast"?

In recent years, we have increasingly seen articles and discussions that portray Date Masamune as a "cooking man of the Sengoku period."

One possible reason is that historical records suggest Masamune had a great interest in cooking, and there are traditional dishes and ingredients from Miyagi Prefecture that are said to have been developed by him

Another significant factor is the story that Masamune entertained shoguns such as Tokugawa Hidetada and Iemitsu, and personally planned the menus and even served the food

Furthermore, there are numerous anecdotes suggesting a strong interest in cooking, such as the fact that she would plan the menu for the day's meals every morning

Certainly, these achievements suggest that his nickname, "The Cooking Man of the Sengoku Period," wasn't just for show. However, it might be wise to be cautious about simply understanding Masamune as a gourmet or food connoisseur in the modern sense

This is because, not only for the Date family but for warlords of the Sengoku period, food and cookingwere directly linked to military provisions and diplomacy at the dinner table; in other words,they were a part of military strategy.

Therefore, some local dishes that are said to have originated with Masamune's involvement are deeply connected to the battlefield

Furthermore, Masamune was also one of the leading tea masters of his time, sometimes referred to as "Sen no Rikyu's last disciple."

As is well known, the Way of Tea is not simply about preparing and serving matcha tea, but also about the art of creating a sophisticated space that comprehensively produces the tools, architecture, and artwork necessary for the experience

Naturally, they pay meticulous attention to food, including sweets and kaiseki cuisine, so it's understandable that their efforts inevitably draw attention to cooking as well

Therefore, it seems that Masamune's actions were not so much driven by a love of cooking, but rather by the expectations of a tea master and host

Such meticulous and extensive consideration may have been the key to winning the hearts and minds of the people, both politically and militarily, as a warlord or the lord of a domain

Masamune's Diplomacy Through Dining? Entertaining the Tokugawa Shogunate

It's not just a fantasy that cuisine can play a role in diplomacy, facilitating smoother negotiations and easing military tensions

The power of Date Masamune, who became the undisputed ruler of Tohoku, was one of the threats that the early Tokugawa shogunate could never afford to ignore

Masamune was said to have been capable of actually aiming for national domination, but he never raised his bow against the Tokugawa

Nevertheless, it appears that the tension continued for a long time, as evidenced by the following accounts

Masamune's hospitality towards Tokugawa Hidetada

In 1628,Tokugawa Hidetada, who had abdicated the position of the second shogun and become the retired shogun, to his Sendai residence in Edo and entertained him. This was a time when several tozama daimyo who had survived the Sengoku period were stripped of their domains or their territories were abolished, and the Tokugawa system of rule was becoming even stronger.

Of course, winning Hidetada's favor was a key point, but conveying sincerity through hospitality can also be seen as an important diplomatic presentation demonstrating the loyalty and respect of the Date family, a powerful outside daimyo

It is said that Masamune was involved in everything from devising the menu to cooking, but what is particularly noteworthy is that he personally served those dishes to Hidetada

However, at this point, one of Hidetada's close retainers tried to stop him, arguing that "it hasn't been tasted for poison yet."

While this measure was somewhat expected given that Hidetada was the former shogun and retired shogun, it could also be seen as a scene that revealed his true feelings of blatant suspicion towards Masamune

Upon hearing this, Masamune became furious, saying, "Ten years ago, I might have thought of settling things on the battlefield, but I would never have even considered poisoning someone."

In other words, this incident can be seen as an instance where, by angrily conveying the message "Don't underestimate me," he demonstrated his sincerity

It is said that when Hidetada heard about this commotion, he was actually impressed by Masamune's loyalty

Perhaps this was Masamune's signature performance, a way to paradoxically convey, through his warrior-like demeanor, that he had absolutely no ill intentions

The third shogun, Tokugawa Iemitsu, affectionately called Masamune "Father."

Masamune also entertained the third shogun, Tokugawa Iemitsu , with dishes that he himself devised and prepared

It is said that Iemitsu admired Masamune so much that he called him "Dad Date," and Masamune often reciprocated this affection

Iemitsu, who is said to have held the first Tokugawa shogun, Ieyasu, in deep reverence, was the first shogun to have no experience of actual combat, and it is said that he looked forward to hearing battle stories from veteran warlords

It is said that Masamune prepared as many as 54 different dishes to entertain Iemitsu , and he went to great lengths to include high-status ingredients such as the crane

Although cranes are not commonly associated with food today due to hunting restrictions,in ancient Japanese cuisine, theywere considered the highest-ranking type of poultry.

Although it's called a crane, it wasn't the red-crowned crane that was used as a food ingredient; rather, the gray-feathered cranes, known as"hooded cranes"or"white-naped cranes,"were considered delicious.

Incidentally, while falconry was initially popular among the Tokugawa family, it declined for a time, but was revived during the reign of the ninth shogun, Ieshige, and"Tsuru Onari" (Crane Procession)was held.

This involved raising cranes in a hunting ground exclusively for the shogun, hunting them with hawks, preserving them in salt, and presenting them to the imperial court

It seems that it was often used in dishes such as soups, but it was also highly valued as a special ingredient to be offered to nobles

Furthermore, it is known that crane meat, although extremely expensive, was available to the general public. Records show that during the Genroku era, from the late 17th to the early 18th century, a Kabuki actor namedSakata Tojuropaid 10 silver coins to buy a crane.

[Reference] The hospitality dishes prepared by Tokugawa Yorinobu for Tokugawa Hidetada

As we have seen, Masamune treated his lords Hidetada and Iemitsu with great hospitality, but just how high was the level of his cuisine?

Let's take a look at the menu that Tokugawa Yorinobu, the first lord of the Kishu domain , served to his older brother, the retired shogun Tokugawa Hidetada, at the Takebashi residence north of Edo Castle on January 23, 1624

Although there was a 23-year age difference between the two, they were both the biological sons of Tokugawa Ieyasu, so it is easy to imagine that the celebratory meals prepared for them were of the highest caliber of the time

Furthermore,these are not meant to be eaten all at once, but rather are part of a formal banquet enjoyed over a long period of time, interspersed with performances of Noh and Kyogen plays and drinking parties.

Below is a list of dishes from that time

While some of the dishes listed above are difficult to imagine the taste of in modern times, they do feature ingredients such as crane meat, and some ingredients are reminiscent of those used in the cuisine of the Date family

This gives us a glimpse into just how Masamune treated Hidetada and Iemitsu with such high-level hospitality

Series: The Date Family's "Food" Strategy Series

Tohoku Rokken Trivia Media NEFT

[Part 1] The Date Family's "Food" Strategy! Masamune's Inherited Spirit of Hospitality | The Splendor of Date's New Year's Cuisine

https://jp.neft.asia/archives/55072

Initially, the term "Date" referred to something flashy, stylish, and fashionable, and idioms like "Date man," "not just for show," and "Date glasses" are still commonly heard today. It's well-known that its origin lies in the lifestyle and behavior of Date Masamune, a highly popular warlord of the Sengoku period, and his retainers. While "Date" is often associated with clothing and ornaments, this spirit, which began with Masamune, extended to all aspects of culture. One of these was "cuisine." A lavish and extravagant array of delicacies from the mountains and sea, befitting the name of a "Date," can be found...

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Tohoku Rokken Trivia Media NEFT

[Part 2] The Date Family's "Food" Strategy! Masamune's Inherited Spirit of Hospitality | A Warning Against Arrogance and Full-Scale Hospitality for the Shogun

https://jp.neft.asia/archives/55076

Were the Date family's everyday meals also extravagant? In the previous section, we looked at the example of the lavish New Year's cuisine of the Sendai Date family, but did they also enjoy extravagant meals in their daily lives? In short, even for daimyo (feudal lords), it wasn't uncommon for their everyday meals to be surprisingly modest, and this was certainly the case for Masamune, the first lord of the Sendai domain. While he's often portrayed as a gourmet these days, his approach to food as a tea master, not just a warlord, is also impressive. This attitude suggests he never forgot to be grateful for the ingredients and the people involved in food production. Here are some anecdotes that illustrate Masamune's character...

Tohoku Rokken Trivia Media NEFT

[Part 2] The Date Family's "Food" Strategy! Masamune's Inherited Spirit of Hospitality | Specialty Products of the Sendai Domain as Seen Through Gifts from the Shogunate and Local Cuisine

https://jp.neft.asia/archives/55080

Types of Tributes and Gifts from the Sendai Domain: The Sendai Domain, since the time of Date Masamune, has demonstrated a deep understanding of and dedication to cuisine and ingredients. This was also evident in its relationship with the central government, the shogunate, through "tributes" to the shogun's family and "gifts" to other families. Here, we will refer to Toshimitsu Kagohashi's paper, "On the Tributes and Gifts of Local Products in the Sendai Domain," to examine some of the ingredients the Sendai Date family used as gifts. Incidentally, this paper extracts examples from the Tenna 2-3 period (1682-1683), during the reign of the fifth shogun, Tokugawa Tsunayoshi, and...

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Koroku Taito( History writer and novelist )

- Author of the original text for Seibido Publishing's "Illustrated Dictionary of the Heian Period: A Visual Guide to Enjoying Life. " - Honorable Mention for "The Land of Star Readings" at the 3rd Misato Western Treasury Literary Awards. - Honorable Mention for "Io-san's Bride's Meals" at Everystar's "Delicious Time" competition. - "Swordsman's Communications" at the 9th Historical and Period Novel Grand Prizes, "Exhilarating! Entertainment Swordsman Award" (book publication project in progress). - 5th Dan in Iaido, 4th Dan in Jodo.

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