[Part 2] The Date Family's "Food" Strategy! Masamune's Inherited Spirit of Hospitality | Specialty Products of the Sendai Domain as Seen Through Gifts from the Shogunate and Local Cuisine

Types of gifts and presents from the Sendai Domain

It appears that the Sendai domain, since the time of Date Masamune, has had a deep understanding of and dedication to cuisine and ingredients

This was also demonstrated in their relationship with the central government, the shogunate, in the form of "presentations" to the shogun's family and "gifts" to other families

Here, we will refer to Toshimitsu Kagohashi's paper"On the Presentation and Gifting of Local Products in the Sendai Domain,"and look at some of the food items that the Sendai Date family used as gifts.

Incidentally, the paper extracts examples from the Tenna 2-3 period (1682-1683), during the reign of the fifth shogun, Tokugawa Tsunayoshi. This is because it was a time when the relationship between the Tokugawa family's rule and the various feudal domains had stabilized, and before the "Edict on Compassion for Living Things" had a significant impact on hunting and other activities

Dried rice (hoshii)

"Hoshi"refers to dried cooked rice, a preserved food that has been valued since ancient times not only as military rations but also as emergency food during disasters.

Since it has been preheated, it can be eaten as is,and it works on the same principle as instant rice for outdoor use.

The dried rice produced by the Date family was known to be of particularly high quality, and was given as a gift to the Shogunate and daimyo families as a specialty product known as "Sendai Hoshii."

Records from the second year of Tenna (1682) show that 30 kin (1 kin is approximately 600g) each were presented to Shogun Tsunayoshi and his heir Tokumatsu

Furthermore, gifts were given with varying weights, with the Shogun's family receiving the largest amount, such as 20 kin to some of the Grand Elders and Senior Councilors, and 10 kin to the Konoe family of court nobles

salmon

Salmonis undoubtedly one of Tohoku's representative products, and it was presented to Shogun Tsunayoshithe "first salmon" and "second salmon"in succession. The catches were labeled with terms like "first," "second," and "third," suggesting that the first catches and those that were just beginning to be harvested were considered auspicious.

The unit of measurement is given as "one shaku" (a unit of length), and other"salmon roe"and"salted salmon"be found.

Salmon roe basket​子籠

" Sakeko-子籠"is an unusual dish consisting of salmon stuffed with salmon roe, and it is a specialty that is also included in the New Year's cuisine of the Date family, as mentioned in the previous chapter.

It wasn't a female salmon carrying eggs; rather, it was a very laboriously processed product where the internal organs were removed without cutting open the belly, and only the salmon roe was stuffed inside before being salted

Another distinctive feature is that these were presented or given as gifts to the Shogunate and daimyo families in units of length, such as "10 shaku" or "5 shaku."

Cod

Cod is another seafood product typical of the northern regions, and the term "first cod" was permitted when it was presented as a tribute to the Shogun's family

The unit of measurement for both gifts presented to the Shogun's family and those given to daimyo families is "one fish," so weight and length are not specifically recorded

Because they inhabit deep seas, they were caught using fishing methods such as longlines and gillnets, and it is thought that the majority were Pacific cod that migrated to coastal areas during the spawning season

It is said that salted cod , a type of preserved fish , only became widely available during the mid-Edo period, when salt production in the Seto Inland Sea region increased.

Crane

The crane , which was also used in banquets for the shogun under Date Masamune , is recorded as a tribute or gift from the Sendai domain.

The unit is"one ship," while other birds are referred to as "wings," suggesting a special status for this bird.

In 1682, in addition to Shogun Tsunayoshi , "Hatsutsuru" was also presented to Inaba Masanori, who served as the chief senior councilor and advisor to the government, and Hotta Masatoshi, the Grand Elder

As mentioned in a previous chapter, it is said that at that time, the cranes used for food referred to the white-naped crane and the common hooded crane, and the red-crowned crane, which is well known today, was not considered to have a good taste

Hishikui

"Hishigui"may be unfamiliar, but it is a large bird belonging to the Anatidae family and is a type of goose.

The name comes from their fondness for eating water chestnuts, and the fact that the area around Lake Izunuma in northern Miyagi Prefecture is still the largest wintering ground for geese in Japan suggests that it was one of the specialties of the Sendai domain

It is said to have been delicious because it belongs to the Anatidae family, and the "Wakan Sansai Zue" ( a Japanese encyclopedia) also mentions that its aroma resembles that of a crane

Gifts and presents from the Sendai Domain were recorded in units of "one wing."

Swan

swansmight surprise you, but they were used as a food source during the Edo period.

In modern terms, the term "swan" refers to a group of seven species of waterfowl belonging to the Anatidae family, and only two species, the Whooper Swan and the Tundra Swan, migrate to Japan for the winter

Because it belongs to the Anatidae family, it is said to have a good taste, and the name "Hatsu-Shiratori" (first swan) appears in the records of a gift presented to the Shogun by the Date family in 1682 (Tenna 2)

Specialty food of the Sendai Domain

Since its first lord, Date Masamune, the Sendai Domain has elevated "food" from military, political, and cultural perspectives

In that process, a food culture that could be called local specialties and regional cuisine has been nurtured

Miyagi Prefecture today still boasts a variety of delicious traditional foods, and we've selected some that are said to have a deep connection to Masamune

Of course, some aspects remain in the realm of legend and folklore, but it can be said that this food has been given such an important position that people have tried to link it to Masamune's achievements

Below are three types:

Freeze-dried tofu

"Frozen tofu"is a food made by repeatedly freezing and thawing tofu to dry it out.

It's similar to "Koya Tofu," which is often used in vegetarian cuisine, and can be described as a freeze-dried preserved tofu product

Because it is a dried product, it can be stored at room temperature for a long period of time, and because it is light, easy to carry, and has excellent nutritional value, it was highly valued as military rations

In Miyagi Prefecture, there is a legend that Date Masamune developed it through his research into military provisions, but other cold regions such as Mount Koya in Wakayama Prefecture and Nagano Prefecture are also famous production areas, and it is thought that the processing method was discovered spontaneously

Zunda mochi

Zunda mochiis a well-known specialty of Miyagi Prefecture, made by finely crushing edamame beans, seasoning them with sweetener, and coating mochi rice cakes with a paste-like consistency.

It is believed that the practice of sweetening with sugar, as is common today, began in the late Edo period, but in the Sendai domain, it is considered a local dish that has been eaten in rural areas since ancient times

There are various theories about the origin of the word "zunda," but one of them is that it originated when Date Masamune crushed edamame beans with the hilt of his battle sword and ate them during a battle

The story goes that "jinda" from "jintachi" (battle sword) gradually changed to "zunda," but realistically, it's hard to imagine why one would deliberately crush edamame beans with such an important weapon

Nevertheless, the fact that it's associated with Masamune, a historical hero of the region, shows its deep connection to local culture and its significance as a soul food

Zunda mochi

Sendai miso

"Sendai miso"is another local specialty that shouldn't be forgotten, and there's a legend that it was popularized by Date Masamune.

One theory suggests that during Hideyoshi's invasion of Korea, only the miso in the Date family's possession did not spoil, which is how it gained its reputation. However, some believe this is merely a legend, considering the timeline in relation to historical facts

However, it is true that Masamune played a leading role in the production of Sendai miso, and in the Edo period,"Goensogura"was established in the castle town of Sendai.

During the time of the second lord of the Sendai domain, Tadamune, it is said that the local specialty miso was widely distributed from the Sendai domain's secondary residence in Edo and became extremely popular

Sendai miso is a spicy red miso made with rice koji and soybeans, and it probably suited the tastes of the people of Edo (Tokyo)

Masamune's teachings: Understanding the "hearts" of those involved in food

Having examined the Sendai Date family's approach to food, it's clear that the thoughts and attitudes of the first lord, Date Masamune, are deeply rooted in it

It seems to me that this is not merely the pursuit of deliciousness, but rather a reminder to never forget to be grateful for all the people and things involved in food

As I've mentioned many times before, there's an anecdote about Masamune himself cooking, and he left behind these words:

"Having no interest in cooking at all is a sign of a poor or unrefined mind."

This statement connects the principles and philosophy of cooking, but it's not simply an assertion that one should cook for themselves

This approach, which involves considering the other person's mood and physical condition through cooking, expressing gratitude, and creating a pleasant time together, is the essence of hospitality

Thus, it is perhaps the spirit of "compassion" that a man who survived the turbulent Sengoku period has cultivated that has contributed to the rich culture of the Sendai domain

Series: The Date Family's "Food" Strategy Series

Tohoku Rokken Trivia Media NEFT

[Part 1] The Date Family's "Food" Strategy! Masamune's Inherited Spirit of Hospitality | The Splendor of Date's New Year's Cuisine

https://jp.neft.asia/archives/55072

Initially, the term "Date" referred to something flashy, stylish, and fashionable, and idioms like "Date man," "not just for show," and "Date glasses" are still commonly heard today. It's well-known that its origin lies in the lifestyle and behavior of Date Masamune, a highly popular warlord of the Sengoku period, and his retainers. While "Date" is often associated with clothing and ornaments, this spirit, which began with Masamune, extended to all aspects of culture. One of these was "cuisine." A lavish and extravagant array of delicacies from the mountains and sea, befitting the name of a "Date," can be found...

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Tohoku Rokken Trivia Media NEFT

[Part 2] The Date Family's "Food" Strategy! Masamune's Inherited Spirit of Hospitality | A Warning Against Arrogance and Full-Scale Hospitality for the Shogun

https://jp.neft.asia/archives/55076

Were the Date family's everyday meals also extravagant? In the previous section, we looked at the example of the lavish New Year's cuisine of the Sendai Date family, but did they also enjoy extravagant meals in their daily lives? In short, even for daimyo (feudal lords), it wasn't uncommon for their everyday meals to be surprisingly modest, and this was certainly the case for Masamune, the first lord of the Sendai domain. While he's often portrayed as a gourmet these days, his approach to food as a tea master, not just a warlord, is also impressive. This attitude suggests he never forgot to be grateful for the ingredients and the people involved in food production. Here are some anecdotes that illustrate Masamune's character...

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Tohoku Rokken Trivia Media NEFT

[Part 2] The Date Family's "Food" Strategy! Masamune's Inherited Spirit of Hospitality | Specialty Products of the Sendai Domain as Seen Through Gifts from the Shogunate and Local Cuisine

https://jp.neft.asia/archives/55080

Types of Tributes and Gifts from the Sendai Domain: The Sendai Domain, since the time of Date Masamune, has demonstrated a deep understanding of and dedication to cuisine and ingredients. This was also evident in its relationship with the central government, the shogunate, through "tributes" to the shogun's family and "gifts" to other families. Here, we will refer to Toshimitsu Kagohashi's paper, "On the Tributes and Gifts of Local Products in the Sendai Domain," to examine some of the ingredients the Sendai Date family used as gifts. Incidentally, this paper extracts examples from the Tenna 2-3 period (1682-1683), during the reign of the fifth shogun, Tokugawa Tsunayoshi, and...

Koroku Taito( History writer and novelist )

- Author of the original text for Seibido Publishing's "Illustrated Dictionary of the Heian Period: A Visual Guide to Enjoying Life. " - Honorable Mention for "The Land of Star Readings" at the 3rd Misato Western Treasury Literary Awards. - Honorable Mention for "Io-san's Bride's Meals" at Everystar's "Delicious Time" competition. - "Swordsman's Communications" at the 9th Historical and Period Novel Grand Prizes, "Exhilarating! Entertainment Swordsman Award" (book publication project in progress). - 5th Dan in Iaido, 4th Dan in Jodo.

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