Hakama

[Sendai City, Miyagi Prefecture] Important Intangible Cultural Property "Seiko Sendaihira" is the highest quality brand of hakama fabric

In Miyagi Prefecture, the traditional craft beloved by ordinary people is the kokeshi doll.
But what about the traditional craft that was cherished by the samurai class?

Sendai, a city of one million people, flourished as the political and economic center of the Tohoku region during the Edo period under the name of the Sendai Domain.
As Sendai was founded by Date Masamune, who was known for his love of extravagance, it naturally boasts many crafts that were beloved by samurai.
This time, we will introduce one such craft, "Sendai-hira."


What is Sendaihira, the highest quality Japanese clothing brand?

Sendai-hira is a type of woven fabric pronounced "Sendai-hira."
It is also written as 仙臺平, but this is a registered trademark of Sendai-hira Limited Partnership.
In this article, we will use the spelling Sendai-hira to distinguish it.

Sendai-hira is extremely durable and wrinkle-resistant, and has been known as the finest fabric for hakama (traditional Japanese trousers) from the Edo period to the Meiji period.While it is often used for hakama with gray stripes, it is also sometimes used for small items such as wallets.

Its origins date back to the late 17th or early 18th century.
Tsunamura, the fourth lord of the Sendai domain, commissioned Komatsu Yaemon, his personal weaver, to produce textiles for the domain's use in order to promote local industries.
During the time of the fifth lord, Yoshimura, improvements were made using Kinkazan raw silk, and it was perfected as a high-quality fabric for hakama (traditional Japanese trousers).

Date Yoshimura
Photo by Wikipedia

They came to be highly valued not only as gifts to the shogunate and other domains, but also to the Imperial family


What is the appeal of Sendai-daira?

So, how did Sendai-hira come into being?
What exactly is the appeal of Sendai-hira?

The distinctive features of Sendaihira are its unique luster, luxurious feel, and durability

Sendai-hira, possessing these characteristics, is said to be ideal for use with hakama (traditional Japanese trousers) worn in formal settings because it is sturdy yet maintains an elegant fullness when seated, and when standing, it neatly maintains its shape and folds well.
For this reason, it has been favored by high-ranking samurai.

The unique luster is created by a manufacturing method that brings out the natural properties of raw silk.
The warp threads are made of "spun silk" (thread that has been twisted), while the weft threads are made of untwisted raw silk that has been moistened with water.
This increases the density of the fabric, creating a durable material.
For even greater durability, the warp threads are also moistened with water and woven repeatedly.

Among the fabrics woven in this way, those that are particularly strong and have a hard texture are called "Seiko Sendaihira."


"Sendai-daira" designated as an Important Intangible Cultural Property

"Sendaihira" has been registered as an "Important Intangible Cultural Property (Craftsmanship)" for two generations

born on July 10, 1902, in Sendai City, Miyagi Prefecture,was recognized in 1956 as a holder of the Important Intangible Cultural Property "Seiko Sendai-hira" in the field of "dyeing and weaving".

son, Yoshio Koda, born on January 4, 1929, in Sendai City, Miyagi Prefecture,was also recognized in 2002 as a holder of the Important Intangible Cultural Property "Seiko Sendai-hira" in the field of "dyeing and weaving."

"Important Intangible Cultural Property" is the common name given to individuals who have been individually recognized as holders of an Important Intangible Cultural Property designated by the Minister of Education, Culture, Sports, Science and Technology of Japan in accordance with Article 71, Paragraph 2 of the Law for the Protection of Cultural Properties, and are sometimes referred to as "Living National Treasures."

Incidentally, only two people in Miyagi Prefecture have been recognized as "Important Intangible Cultural Properties," commonly known as "Living National Treasures" in the past and present: Mr. Koda Eisuke and Mr. Koda Suiro


Present-day Sendai-daira

Sendai-hira, a fabric woven with exquisite precision and beauty
over generations, could not withstand the tide of time.

During World War II, business restructuring and the ban on the production of luxury goods were imposed, and Sendaihira, which once produced over 30,000 bolts a year, was reduced to just a small amount

In postwar Japan, the demand for traditional Japanese clothing declined.
Sendai-hira, a fabric beloved for hakama (traditional Japanese trousers), found itself in an even more precarious position.
As the demand for hakama decreased, production also declined, andcurrently, it is only manufactured by Sendai-hira Limited Partnership.
The technique for producing Sendai-hira was registered as a National Important Intangible Cultural Property in July 2002 (registered name: "Seiko Sendai-hira").

However, Sendai-daira is not a tradition that is simply disappearing.
In 2013, it collaborated with the luxury brandGUCCI,""

In 2017, figure skater Yuzuru Hanyu wore the brand in a Sendai tourism promotional poster, demonstrating their commitment to nationwide popularity.
They have consistently been selected for the Japan Traditional Crafts Exhibition, which celebrated its 65th anniversary in 2018, showcasing their strong presence.

And what's more, the Sendai First Tower, a complex located in Ichibancho, Aoba Ward, Sendai City, Miyagi Prefecture, which opened in July 2009, has an exterior that is based on the Sendaihira pattern!

Even in modern times, when traditional Japanese clothing is no longer worn daily, the beauty of Sendai-hira remains unchanged.
If you have the opportunity, why not pick up a Sendai-hira product?
You might just be captivated by its robust yet delicate charm!


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