Hakama

[Sendai City, Miyagi Prefecture] Important Intangible Cultural Property "Seiko Sendaihira" is the highest quality brand of hakama fabric

Kokeshi dolls are a traditional craft loved by the common people of Miyagi Prefecture,
but what about the traditional crafts loved by the samurai class?

Sendai, a city of one million people, flourished as the political and economic center of the Tohoku region during the Edo period under the name of Sendai Domain.
Sendai was developed by Date Masamune, who was known for his love of flashiness, so naturally there are many crafts beloved by samurai.
This time, we will introduce one such craft, "Sendai-daira."


What is Sendaihira, the highest quality Japanese clothing brand?

Sendaihira is a type of textile that is pronounced "Sendaihira."
It is also written as Sendaihira, but this is a registered trademark of Sendaihira LLC.
In this article, we will refer to it as Sendaihira to distinguish it from the original.

Sendaihira is extremely strong and wrinkle-resistant, so it has been known as the finest hakama fabric from the Edo period to the Meiji period. Most hakama have gray stripes, but it is also used for small items such as wallets.

It was born in the late 17th century or early 18th century.
In order to promote local industries, Date Tsunamura, the fourth lord of the Sendai domain, ordered his official weaver, Komatsu Yaemon, to produce fabrics for the domain.
During the reign of the fifth lord, Yoshimura, improvements were made using Kinkazan raw silk, and it was perfected as a hakama fabric made with the highest level of craftsmanship.

Date Yoshimura
Photo by Wikipedia

They came to be highly valued not only as gifts to the shogunate and other domains, but also to the Imperial family


What is the appeal of Sendai-daira?

So why did Sendai-daira become so captivating for people at the time?
What exactly is the appeal of Sendai-daira?

The distinctive features of Sendaihira are its unique luster, luxurious feel, and durability

With these characteristics, Sendaihira is sturdy yet maintains an elegant fullness when sitting, and when standing up, it has a neat and tidy shape with a noticeable fold, making it ideal for use in hakama worn in formal occasions.
For this reason, it has been favored by high-ranking samurai.

The unique luster comes from a manufacturing process that brings out the natural properties of raw silk.
The warp threads are made from "degummed threads (twisted threads)" and the weft threads are made from untwisted raw silk that is wetted with water.
This increases the density of the fabric and creates a strong fabric.
To make a stronger fabric, the warp threads are also wetted with water and woven repeatedly.

Among the fabrics woven in this way, those that are particularly strong and have a hard texture are called "Seiko Sendaihira."


"Sendai-daira" designated as an Important Intangible Cultural Property

"Sendaihira" has been registered as an "Important Intangible Cultural Property (Craftsmanship)" for two generations

, born on July 10, 1902 in Sendai, Miyagi Prefecture, was recognized in 1956 as a holder of the Important Intangible Cultural Property "Seiko Sendaihira" in the field of dyeing and weaving.

son, Yoshio Koda, born on January 4, 1929 in Sendai City, Miyagi Prefecture , was also recognized in 2002 as a holder of the Important Intangible Cultural Property "Seiko Sendaihira" in the same field of dyeing and weaving.

"Important Intangible Cultural Property" is the common name given to individuals who have been individually recognized as holders of an Important Intangible Cultural Property designated by the Minister of Education, Culture, Sports, Science and Technology of Japan in accordance with Article 71, Paragraph 2 of the Law for the Protection of Cultural Properties, and are sometimes referred to as "Living National Treasures."

Incidentally, only two people in Miyagi Prefecture have been recognized as "Important Intangible Cultural Properties," commonly known as "Living National Treasures" in the past and present: Mr. Koda Eisuke and Mr. Koda Suiro


Present-day Sendai-daira

Sendaidai has been woven beautifully and precisely for many years
, but it has not been able to resist the flow of time.

During World War II, business restructuring and the ban on the production of luxury goods were imposed, and Sendaihira, which once produced over 30,000 bolts a year, was reduced to just a small amount

In postwar Japan, the demand for kimono itself decreased.
This put Sendaihira, which had been loved as a fabric for hakama, in even greater difficulty.
As the demand for hakama decreased, production volume also decreased, and now it is only produced by Sendaihira Limited Partnership.
The technique for making Sendaihira was registered as an Important Intangible Cultural Property of Japan in July 2002 (registered name: "Seiko Sendaihira").

However, Sendai-daira is not a tradition that is simply disappearing.
In 2013, they collaborated with the luxury brand GUCCI ,

The brand is making great efforts to spread its appeal nationwide, with
Yuzuru Hanyu wearing it in a Sendai tourism promotional poster in 2017. It has also been selected for the Japan Traditional Crafts Exhibition, which will be held for the 65th time in 2018, demonstrating its presence by being selected almost every year.

And what's more, the Sendai First Tower, a complex located in Ichibancho, Aoba Ward, Sendai City, Miyagi Prefecture, which opened in July 2009, has an exterior that is based on the Sendaihira pattern!

Even in today's world where traditional Japanese clothing is no longer worn on a daily basis, the beauty of Sendai-daira remains unchanged.
If you have the opportunity, why not try out a Sendai-daira product?
You may be captivated by its robust yet delicate charm!


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