A cut in the nishin? Introducing the background of the birth and recommended ways to eat it [Aomori Prefecture]

Fermentation culture remains strong in Hokkaido and Tohoku. Among them, " nishin no kikomi" (simmered herring ), a traditional preserved food eaten in Hokkaido and Aomori, has long been loved as a side dish to rice or as a snack with alcohol. In this article, we will introduce the background of the creation of nishin no kikomi, its regional characteristics, and recommended ways to eat it.


What is a herring cut?

Cutting in the nishin

"Nishin no Kirikomi" is a fermented food that has been made in Hokkaido and the Tohoku region for a long time. Fresh herring is finely chopped and pickled in salt, rice koji, ginger, and other ingredients, and left to ferment for a certain period of time to complete the dish. It has a subdued fishy smell and the subtle sweetness and saltiness of the koji blend together to create a deep umami flavor

In the past, this "nishin no kikomi" was typically prepared at home in the winter. The cold environment of snowy regions is ideal for fermentation, allowing the flavor to develop over time without straining the food. Nowadays, packaged products are sold at supermarkets and product fairs across the country, and are attracting attention from both locals and tourists alike


Explaining the background behind the creation of herring slits!

Mutsu Bay
Mutsu Bay

Herring fishing is popular in Hokkaido and Aomori

The background to the widespread use of herring cuts is the thriving herring fishing industry in Hokkaido and Aomori. From the Meiji period to the early Showa period, fishing grounds known as " nishinba" (herring fishing grounds) were bustling, particularly in Hokkaido, where large quantities of herring were landed. In Aomori, herring fishing was also an important industry supporting local livelihoods, particularly along the Tsugaru Strait coast.

Herring is a versatile resource that is used not only as food but also as fertilizer (herring meal) and oil (herring oil). However, during the fishing season, more herring than can be consumed can sometimes be caught all at once, which raises the issue of how to dispose of them

Herring is difficult to preserve

Nishin
Landed herring

Herring is fatty and delicious, but it is also a fish that spoils very easily. In particular, refrigeration facilities were not in place at the time, so if herring was not processed on the same day it was caught, it would quickly lose its freshness. For this reason, while preservation methods such as salting and drying were developed, the method of " kirikomi " using salt and koji was born.

By making cuts in the fish, not only is the flavor concentrated, but it can also be stored for a long time, and it has become a staple on the family dinner table as a valuable source of protein during the winter. This wisdom, which achieved both preservation of fish and its deliciousness, is still passed down in many households today

Fermented foods are common in Hokkaido and Tohoku

Another reason why kirikomi herring is so popular is the fermentation culture that is deeply rooted in the region. Hokkaido and the Tohoku region are home to a large number of foods that utilize fermentation, such as miso, pickles, and salted fish. This is because, being a snowy region, the environmental conditions allow fermentation to proceed slowly, allowing the flavor to be extracted over time. Another factor is that the region has a wealth of knowledge and methods for preserving food to survive the harsh winters

It was a natural progression to incorporate fermentation into food preservation at home, and kirikomi developed as part of this process. It was a valuable food to preserve during the winter, and the custom of preparing it in each household at the change of seasons became ingrained


Recommended ways to eat herring cuts

Classic arrangement: Ochazuke

Simply place sliced ​​herring on freshly cooked white rice and pour in hot tea or dashi. It's simple and easy to eat, but the taste is exceptional. The umami of the fermentation combined with the dashi makes it light and satisfying, making it the perfect final dish after a night of drinking. You can also add chopped green onions, seaweed, or wasabi to enhance the flavor

Mix with grated daikon radish to create a salted fish-like dish

If you want to enjoy something refreshing, we recommend combining it with grated daikon radish. Kirikomi is sometimes written as shiokara, and the combination of shiokara and grated daikon radish is excellent! The saltiness of the kikomi and the spiciness of the daikon radish go well together, neutralizing the oiliness of the fish just enough

It's delicious just with grated daikon radish, but it's also delicious mixed in! You can enjoy the flavor of the ingredients even more by eating it with shochu or sake

Boiled with vegetables in Sanpei soup style

Sanpei soup, beloved in Hokkaido

Sanpei-jiru is a local Hokkaido dish made by simmering salted fish and root vegetables together. Using herring fillets makes it easy to enjoy Sanpei-jiru. By simmering it with root vegetables such as potatoes, radishes, and carrots, the umami of the fillets dissolves into the soup, creating a richly flavored bowl that doesn't require dashi. Why not try this warm soup, perfect for the cold season, with your family?


summary

Herring kirikomi is a traditional dish full of wisdom and ingenuity that originated in the cold regions of Hokkaido and the Tohoku region. This food culture, which developed as a way to preserve herring in areas with thriving herring fishing industries, has transcended the ages and is still loved in many households today

You can eat it as is, or make it into ochazuke (rice with tea) or sanpei-jiru (soup with simmered vegetables). The cuts can be enjoyed in a variety of ways, and are a dish that truly encapsulates the appeal of fermented foods. It's rare to find it outside of Hokkaido or Aomori, so you're in luck if you find it!

If you have the opportunity to see it, be sure to give it a try


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