Traditional crafts

We tried weaving in the Okitama region of Yamagata Prefecture, "The Town of Textiles"!

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The Okitama region, located in the southern inland part of Yamagata Prefecture, is divided into three cities and five towns: Yonezawa City, Takahata Town, Nanyo City, Shirataka Town, Nagai City, Kawanishi Town, Iide Town, and Oguni Town. Of these, Yonezawa City, Shirataka Town, and Nagai City have been thriving textile-producing areas since ancient times

Starting with the cultivation of blue indigo, silkworm farming also flourished, and the textile culture took root deeply and continues to this day. Later, it was collectively called Okitama Tsumugi and was designated as a traditional craft of the country.

Link: Japan Traditional Culture Promotion Organization website – Okitama Tsumugi

At one point, it was pushed out by synthetic fibers and was on the verge of decline, but thanks to the efforts of weavers, it has been passed down to the present day and remains very popular among kimono enthusiasts

I would like to introduce the spotlight on weaving, which is said to be a traditional craft. I also had the chance to try weaving, so I will also share what that experience was like

What is weaving? I'd like to know more about it!

photo by ikoke

Each region in Japan has developed its own distinctive textiles that suit the region. The Okitama region also has a variety of textiles, but the most famous are still Yonezawa weave, Shirataka tsumugi, and Nagai tsumugi

The characteristics of each will be explained later

Weavers raised silkworms and produced silk cocoons alongside their farming jobs, providing a source of income. There was a time when silk weaving was only permitted for members of the upper classes, such as aristocrats. Common people could only use linen or cotton fabrics

Nowadays, linen has become a luxury item, but perhaps times will change..

It is said that weaving culture has existed since the Jomon period. During the Edo period, silk weaving flourished due to improvements in technology and the rise of sericulture

In the Meiji period, looms became larger, and mechanization led to the industrialization of weaving, which continues to this day. However, as industrialization progressed, the number of weavers decreased

Although there are fewer hand weavers left today are making efforts to keep the tradition alive.

What is handloom weaving?

photo by ikoke

There is a loom called a handloom, where the warp and weft threads are placed on the loom and crossed one by one to weave

The weavers use both hands and feet to weave rhythmically, but in reality, the threads are crossed back and forth many times, and even if they weave, they can only weave a few centimetres, making it a mind-boggling task

I tried weaving!

photo by ikoke

As you can see from the picture, it's difficult to make progress because you have to cross these thin threads as you weave. It took me 30 minutes to fold the red thread! I gave up pretty quickly

What kind of thread is woven?

photo by ikoke

Threads spun from plants such as indigo and silk threads spun from silkworms are put on a loom and woven by artisans

This is raw silk before dyeing. The silk thread in the foreground is already shiny and beautiful

photo by ikoke

It's hard to see because it's behind a glass case, but there is a beautiful selection of colored threads. All of the dyes are natural dyes made from plant roots and tree bark .

photo by ikoke

The dyed thread is wound around the "shuttle" shown above to become the weft. This shuttle is then slid between the threads stretched on the loom to weave the fabric

The unique characteristics of textiles from the Okitama region

We have explored the unique characteristics of the three textiles that represent the Okitama region : Yonezawa weave, Shirataka tsumugi, and Nagai tsumugi

Yonezawa weaving

Yonezawa weaving dates back to the late Edo period, when Uesugi Yozan, who entered the Yonezawa domain to restore its finances, recommended sericulture to promote industry and encouraged weaving as a side job, which led to its spread

By inviting weavers from Kyoto and continuing their research and development efforts, they established the "pre-dyed" technique, in which raw silk is dyed with plants such as safflower and purple before being woven, and Yonezawa weaving became known nationwide

This is woven using thread made from a plant called ramie

Shirataka Tsumugi

Shirataka Tsumugi, like Yonezawa textiles, is a yarn-dyed weave. It has a history of 150 years, and in 1880 it inherited the only Itajime Kasuri technique in Japan , and is said to be the northernmost region of Kasuri weaving

Nagai Tsumugi

During the Meiji period, a textile wholesaler in Nagai City invited a weaving instructor from Niigata to teach tsumugi and other fabrics, and the name "Yoneryu Tsumugi" was born, synonymous with Nagai Tsumugi. The name "Yoneryu" was given to Nagai Tsumugi because it was originally the Yonezawa domain and resembled Ryukyu Tsumugi

Recently, animal patterns have become popular and are being actively incorporated

summary

As I watched the rolls of fabric being completed through a mind-boggling process, and the elegant kimonos being tailored by the Japanese dressmakers, I felt a surge of desire to wear them

A weaving experience is a great opportunity to experience Japanese culture. The Yonezawa Yoneori Kaikan offers free weaving experiences at any time, so why not give it a try when you're out and about?

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