The history of Odate, which played an important role in the borders of the domain during the Meiji Restoration [Akita Prefecture]

Odate was plagued by disputes over the feudal domain borders during the first half of the Edo period

Odate known for its Akita dogs, Hinai chicken, and Kiritanpo , was located in the easternmost part of the Kubota Domain (Akita Domain) during the Edo period.

To the north was the territory of the Tsugaru Domain, and to the east was the territory of the Nanbu Domain, and there were constant disputes along the border, which eventually became a major turmoil that even involved the Edo Shogunate

Currently, Kazuno City and Kosaka Town, located to the east of Odate City, are municipalities within Akita Prefecture, but they were incorporated into Akita Prefecture after the Meiji period; during the Edo period they were the territory of the Nanbu clan

For this reason, the Kubota clan placed a powerful castle lord in Odate Castle, keeping a close eye on the Tsugaru and Nanbu clans


The center of the border dispute with the Tsugaru clan was Yatate Pass on the Ushu Kaido

Yatate Pass, where Akita cedars stand in a forest ©Tabi Tohoku

Odate was on the Ushu Kaido road, which connected Edo and the Tohoku region

To enter the Tsugaru domain from Odate, you must cross Yatate Pass, which

Yatate Pass has traditionally been the border between the two domains, but it seems that no clear location had been decided. At Yatate Pass, a small distance down from the top of the pass towards the Tsugaru domain, "Yatatesugi ," which served as a landmark for the domain boundary.

According to legend, during the Heian period, to determine the border between Dewa Province (Akita and Yamagata prefectures) and Mutsu Province (Aomori prefecture), an arrow was shot at a pass, and the cedar tree that the arrow hit (Yatate cedar) was decided to be the border. However, when the two domains were actually deciding the border, the Tsugaru domain insisted that the top of Yatate Pass was the border

The Kubota clan had always thought that the Yatate cedar would be the boundary marker, so it was difficult to decide on a location

The 150-year-long border dispute

The two domains had no choice but to ask the Edo Shogunate to mediate the dispute. The Shogunate ruled that the Yatate Cedar tree was the boundary, but the Tsugaru domain was not satisfied and continued to complain

Ultimately, the Tsugaru domain also acknowledged that the boundary was at Yatatesugi, but this was not until 1746, during the mid-Edo period, and the dispute continued for nearly 150 years

Even after the Meiji period, the border between Akita and Aomori prefectures has been around Yatate Cedar, and Yatate Cedar is on the Akita side. The Yatate Cedars have since been broken and cut down, but now a third generation tree has been planted on the stump of the old Yatate Cedar as a symbol of the prefectural border

Only the stump remains of the second-generation Yatate cedar. Currently, the stump remains and a third-generation Yatate cedar has been planted. ©Odate City

Yatate Pass is a treasure trove of Akita cedars. It has now been developed into a great walking course

Signposts on the Yatate Pass Promenade ©Akita Forest Development Activity Support Center

The area around Yatate Cedar and Yatate Pass is protected as the "Yatate Forest" and "Yatate Pass Scenic Forest," the "Historical Road: Yatate Pass Promenade" has been developed.

A walking course has been created around the Furu-Ushu Kaido road through a forest of natural Akita cedars, and guide signs have been set up at key points, so you can walk safely without getting lost

the Yatate Pass Roadside Station, located along the current Ushu Kaido (National Route 7) . The roadside station's parking lot can be used for walks, and pamphlets with information about the walking trails are available inside the station. There are also many bears and other wildlife to be seen, so be sure to gather information from staff who are familiar with the area before you set off.

"Roadside Station Yatate Toge" also has a restaurant. Day-trip bathing at the hot spring bath is also available. © Odate Yatate Heights

"Yatate Pass Roadside Station" is attached to the hot spring accommodation facility "Odate Yatate Heights,"

Odate Yatate Heights is close to the remains of the former Ou Main Line Yatate Tunnel, which was once known for its triple-unit steam locomotives. It's a convenient base for sightseeing around Odate City's historical sites, and the hotel also serves excellent local cuisine, including kiritanpo nabe (hot pot) made with Hinai chicken. The natural sodium and calcium chloride hot springs will soothe your everyday fatigue.

The remains of the tea house, a resting place for the lord of the Tsugaru domain, near the Yatate cedar tree. ©Akita Forest Creation Activity Support Center

Yatate Pass Promenade <Information>

  • Historical Road Yatate Pass Promenade
  • Facility name: Roadside Station "Yatate Toge" / Odate Yatate Heights
  • Address: 311 Jinba, Nagahashiri, Odate City, Akita Prefecture
  • Phone number: 0186-51-2311
  • Please check the accommodation fees and other information on the website or travel site
  • <Day trip hot spring>
  • Usage hours: 10:00-15:00
  • Price (including shared room break): 700 yen for junior high school students and above, 400 yen for elementary school students
  • URL: Roadside Station "Yatate Toge" and "Odate Yatate Heights"
  • access:
    • Train: Approximately 25 minutes by taxi from Odate Station on the JR Ou Main Line
    • By car: Approximately 7 minutes from Ikarugaseki IC on the Tohoku Expressway, approximately 20 minutes from Odate Kita IC on the Akita Expressway

Google Map


The border with the Nanbu clan took over 70 years to resolve

The border with the Nanbu Domain to the east was also difficult to determine, so officials from both the Kubota Domain and the Nanbu Domain traveled to Edo many times to hold discussions with the shogunate, and it was not until 1677 that an agreement was finally reached


Odate Castle was spared from demolition as an exception to the Edo Shogunate's One Castle per Province Order

Odate Castle Map ©Odate City

Odate Castle was built by the Asari clan, who ruled over Odate, which had been called Hinai since the Kamakura period, but the Asari clan was defeated in a battle for succession and became extinct

The castle underwent several changes, including the Ando clan of Noshiro temporarily appointing a castle lord there, and then the Nanbu clan taking possession of it. At the end of the Sengoku period, by order of Toyotomi Hideyoshi, it became the castle of the Akita clan (formerly the Ando clan), who ruled the Akita region from Akita Castle at the time

During the Edo period, Tokugawa Ieyasu moved the Akita clan to Hitachi Province (Ibaraki Prefecture) and in return moved the Satake clan, a daimyo of Hitachi Province, to Akita

Odate Castle also became a castle for the Satake clan, but because the Satake clan built their castle in Kubota (Akita City) on the Sea of ​​Japan side, they sent their vassals to Odate Castle. At that time, the original lords of Odate Castle rebelled against the Satake clan, and a conflict broke out, but in 1610, Oba Yoshinari suppressed the rebellion and became the lord of the castle

In 1615, the Edo Shogunate suddenly issued the Ikkoku Ichijorei (One Castle per Province) Order, which stated that one domain (domain = province) was only allowed to have one castle. Since Kubota Domain's base was Kubota Castle, Odate Castle was destined to be abandoned

However, the Kubota Domain was an exception and Odate Castle and Yokote Castle were also recognized as official castles. The reason for this was simply that the domain's territory was large and it would be difficult to govern them

The ruins of Odate Castle, which was burned down during the Boshin War, have been renovated into Katsuragi Park and are a famous cherry blossom viewing spot. ©Tabi Tohoku

Oba Yoshinari, the first lord of Odate Castle, was a cousin of Satake Yoshinobu, the first lord of the Kubota domain, and Yoshifusa, the third lord of Yoshinari, allowed them to use the Satake surname. Furthermore, during the time of Yoshimura, the sixth lord, the family began to be called the "Satake Nishike." Since then, the Satake family of Odate has been called the "Nishike" or "Onishi-sama."


The Boshin War sent shock waves through Odate, a city that had enjoyed a peaceful era

After the border issue was resolved, Odate enjoyed a long period of peace until the end of the Edo period. However, the Meiji Restoration brought devastating damage to Odate. the Boshin War .

In 1867, the Satsuma Domain (Kagoshima Prefecture) and the Choshu Domain (Yamaguchi Prefecture) formed an alliance and staged a coup d'état, forcing the 15th shogun of the Edo shogunate, Tokugawa Yoshinobu, to agree to return sovereignty to the Emperor (the Restoration of Imperial Rule). The coup was completed without bloodshed, and a new government was formed centered around the three domains of Satsuma, Choshu, and Tosa (Kochi Prefecture)

However, forces who were not satisfied with this rebelled against the new government and clashed with the new government forces in Kyoto in January 1868. This was the Battle of Toba-Fushimi, and marked the beginning of the Boshin War. As the new government forces advanced north, the fighting in the Boshin War spread throughout the country

Odate Castle joined the new government forces and became the front line of the Kubota clan

In the Tohoku region, many domains, led by the Aizu Domain (Fukushima Prefecture) and the Nanbu Domain, united in opposition to the new government, and together with some domains in the Hokuriku region the "Oshu-Uetsu Alliance of Domains" and challenged the new government forces. The Kubota Domain also initially joined the Alliance of Domains, but was persuaded by the new government forces to withdraw on July 4, 1868, and most of the surrounding domains became enemies.

The Nanbu clan, angry at the Kubota clan's withdrawal, launched an attack on the Kubota clan on August 9th, and Odate became a battlefield

On August 22nd, Odate Castle fell to the Nanbu clan, which initially boasted overwhelming military power, and the castle town was reduced to almost ashes

After that, the Kubota clan forces received reinforcements from the new government forces and made a comeback, recapturing Odate on September 6. As a result, the only damage suffered by the Kubota clan was Odate Castle, and Kubota Castle remained unscathed until the end of the war


The ruins of Odate Castle have been developed into Katsuragi Park, a place for citizens to relax

All of Odate Castle's buildings were burned down during the Boshin War, but the castle ruins have been developed into Katsuragi Park

Katsura Castle was named after Odate Castle, which was also called "Katsura Castle." Although the buildings no longer exist, parts of the moat and stone walls from that time remain, and many cherry trees have been planted in the garden, attracting many local residents and tourists alike to the spring cherry blossom festival

Illuminated cherry blossoms at Katsuragi Park during the Cherry Blossom Festival ©Tabi Tohoku

Katsuragi Park<Information>

  • Facility name: Katsuragi Park
  • Location: Nakagusuku, Odate City, Akita Prefecture
  • Phone number: 0186-43-7072 (Odate City Industry Department Tourism Division)
  • Train: Approximately 10 minutes by bus from JR Ou Main Line Odate Station, then approximately 1 minute walk from Odate City Hall bus stop, or approximately 20 minutes walk from JR Hanawa Line Higashi-Odate Station
  • By car: Approximately 30 minutes from Kosaka IC on the Tohoku Expressway

Google Map


Odate Hachiman Shrine: A precious building from the Edo period

The main hall, built in the early Edo period and designated as an Important Cultural Property by the national government ©Odate City
 

The old castle town of Odate City was devastated during the Boshin War, and almost no buildings from that time remain, but miraculously, Odate Hachiman Shrine , remains standing as it did during the Edo period. The main hall was built in 1687, and as an extremely valuable building built in the architectural style of the early Edo period, it has been designated an Important Cultural Property of Japan.

Odate Hachiman Shrine <Information>

  • Facility name: Odate Hachiman Shrine
  • Address: 1 Yahata, Odate City, Akita Prefecture
  • Phone number: 0186-42-1328
  • Free to stroll around the temple grounds
  • URL: Odate Hachiman Shrine
  • access:
    • Train: Approximately 35 minutes on foot from Odate Station on the JR Ou Main Line, or approximately 25 minutes on foot from Higashi-Odate Station
    • By car: Approximately 10 minutes from Odate Minami IC or Odate Kita IC on the Akita Expressway

Google Map


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