Recommended scenic driving route in Tohoku! Enjoy autumn foliage at Mt. Kurikoma and Genbi Gorge, and savor char and "flying dumplings" along National Route 342 (Genbi Gorge to Naruse Dam) [Akita Prefecture/Iwate Prefecture]

National Route 342, which connects Yokote City in Akita Prefecture and Tome City in Miyagi Prefecture, is a 148.2km-long, critical route during disasters, running along the slopes of Mount Kurikoma, located at the border of Akita, Iwate, and Miyagi prefectures

This time, we'll introduce a scenic driving course of approximately 60km, from Genbi Gorge in Ichinoseki City, Iwate Prefecture, to Naruse Dam in Higashinaruse Village, Akita Prefecture

Please note that the prices (including tax) mentioned in this article are as of September 22, 2026

Roadside Station Genbikei ~ Matsuriji Disaster Area Observation Hill

Our starting point for this trip is "Michi-no-Eki Genbikei," located along National Route 342, about 7 minutes from the Ichinoseki Interchange on the Tohoku Expressway

From here to Matsurube Ohashi Bridge, the road runs along the Iwai River. Along the road, a rural landscape unfolds with rice stalks bowing their heads in full ripening grain

After passing the "Toge no Iwana-ya" (mountain pass trout shop) along the way, houses and fields gradually become more sparse. After driving for about 20 minutes from the roadside station, you will arrive at the "Matsuriji Disaster Area Observation Hill."

A little detour, part 1: Genbi Gorge and flying dumplings

Before starting from the roadside station, I took a stroll through Genbi Gorge, which is about a 5-minute walk from the station

When it comes to Genbi Gorge, the "cuckoo dumplings," also known as "flying dumplings," are famous

A rope is stretched from the "Kakkoya" (Cuckoo House) located along the national highway to the Higashiya (East House) on the opposite bank of the Iwai River. Money is placed in a basket suspended from the rope, and wooden pieces are struck with a wooden mallet

Then, a staff member from the cuckoo shop pulls the basket away, puts cuckoo dumplings and tea in it, and returns the basket to the Higashiya shop

On this day too, we had planned to enjoy the flying dango (rice dumplings) amidst the spectacular scenery, but because it was Silver Week, there was already a long line at Higashiya by 11am, and we had to wait for two hours

I headed to the store to buy the dango directly, but there was a long line there as well, and the eat-in area inside the store was full of customers waiting for their dango. I couldn't find any staff members, and there was no information on how to purchase, so I gave up on buying the Kakko Dango

For more details about Genbi Gorge and Kakko Dango, please refer to this article

Tohoku Rokken Trivia Media NEFT

Genbikei Gorge, a famous spot in Ichinoseki City, famous for its emerald green river surface and flying dumplings (Iwate Prefecture)

https://jp.neft.asia/archives/198

Genbikei Gorge, located in Ichinoseki City, Iwate Prefecture, is a roughly 2-kilometer-long gorge formed by the erosion of the Iwai River. The sheer, rugged rock faces, including oddly shaped and bizarre rock formations, create a truly breathtaking scene. The water's color can be affected by sediments at the bottom of the river and the hot springs flowing from Mount Kurikoma, and if you're lucky, you might even be able to see the river's surface take on a beautiful emerald green hue. The emerald-green surface of Genbikei Gorge was named by Date Masamune as one of the scenic spots within his domain. The Sengoku period warlord Date Masamune, who ruled over this area, was also captivated by its beauty, visiting it many times...

Tohoku Rokken Trivia Media NEFT

The "Flying Dumplings" are a delicious activity worth seeing! [Ichinoseki City, Iwate Prefecture]

https://jp.neft.asia/archives/2037

Genbikei Gorge is a famous scenic spot in Iwate Prefecture. Many tourists visit here in search of the famous "Flying Dumplings." This time, we'll focus on Genbikei's popular dumplings. What is Genbikei Gorge? Located in Ichinoseki City, Iwate Prefecture, Genbikei Gorge is a scenic spot designated as a national natural monument. The tuff deposited by the eruption of Mount Kurikoma (1,652m above sea level), which straddles the borders of Iwate, Akita, and Miyagi prefectures, was eroded by the Iwai River, which flows from the northern slope of Mount Kurikoma. This is Genbikei Gorge. The gorge, eroded over a long period of time, is surrounded on both sides by steep cliffs. Potholes (o...

A little detour, part 2: Enjoy grilled char skewers and sashimi at "Toge no Iwana-ya"!

About 15 minutes from Genbikei towards Matsuriji, you'll find "Toge no Iwana-ya" on your right, where you can enjoy dishes made with iwana (char) raised at a nearby fish farm

Inside the restaurant, many skewers of char are being grilled over a fire, filling the air with an appetizing aroma

Upon being seated, a complimentary assortment of homemade pickles is served. These pickles were so delicious that even I, who don't usually eat pickles, couldn't stop eating them

Salt-grilled char (600 yen)

Because it's grilled slowly over a long period of time over a hearth, you don't have to worry about the fins or small bones, and you can even eat the head

The fish, grilled over charcoal from a distance, had its moisture removed and its flavor concentrated, resulting in an indescribable taste. I couldn't resist ordering another one, and looking around the restaurant, it seemed that other customers were also eating two or more

Sashimi of char (600 yen)

It was so lively that its head was still moving when it was brought to the table, and its firm texture and intense flavor were superb. Since it was a female, it also had salmon roe (ovaries) attached

It was so delicious that I finished it in no time, and just like with the salt-grilled fish, I ordered another one

Rice cooked with char (350 yen)

This rice dish, generously filled with shredded char, is lightly seasoned with salt to enhance the flavor of the char

It pairs perfectly with the pickles served with the meal, and although they also have rice balls on the menu, I highly recommend this seasoned rice dish

A little detour 3: "Disaster Remains - Second Generation Matsuriji Ohashi Bridge" and "Matsuriji Disaster Remains Viewing Path"

On June 14, 2008 (Heisei 20), the Iwate-Miyagi Inland Earthquake, with a seismic intensity of 6+, struck this area, causing a landslide that led to the collapse of the Matsuri-ji Ohashi Bridge (the second generation). Its remains as it was then, preserved as a disaster relic

From the observation hill, you can see the collapsed Matsuriji Bridge, and a nearby viewing path allows you to walk alongside the severely cut-up old national highway and get close to the bridge

The current Matsuriji Ohashi Bridge opened on December 18, 2010 (Heisei 22), two and a half years after the collapse

Matsuriji Disaster Area Observation Hill ~ Sugawa Onsen

From Matsuriji onward, this area of ​​Kurikoma Mountain Quasi-National Park is known as one of the best spots for viewing autumn foliage in Tohoku, and the best time to see it is usually from early to mid-October

The road to Sugawa Onsen, located on the border between Iwate and Akita prefectures, is a series of hairpin turns as it climbs Mount Kurikoma. The road on the Iwate side is narrow in places, making it difficult for even two passenger cars to pass each other

In sections like this, please slow down and drive while paying close attention to oncoming traffic

From the observation hill, you drive through the forest, which will soon be entering its autumn foliage season, carefully watching out for oncoming traffic. In about 20 minutes, you'll arrive at Sugawa Onsen, where the smell of sulfur fills the air

A little detour 4: Sugawadake's secret spring water, the bounty of beech trees

This spring, which has been selected as one of the "100 Famous Waters of the Heisei Era," is located about 10 minutes (7 km) from the observation hill

This spring, discovered in 2000, is easily accessible thanks to its well-maintained facilities including a parking lot (for 10 cars), and it boasts an abundance of delicious, cold water

I filled an empty plastic bottle I had prepared specifically for drinking this spring water, and used it to stay hydrated during my drive

A little detour #5: "Sugawa Kogen Onsen" and "Kurikoma Sanso"

The hot spring source at Sugawa Onsen has a temperature of 48-52 degrees Celsius, and approximately 6,000 liters of bluish-white, highly acidic water with a pH of 2.1 naturally gush out every minute. It is said to be particularly beneficial for skin diseases

The two inns in this hot spring area are Kurikoma-san Motoyu Sugawa Kogen Onsen, located in Iwate Prefecture (Ichinoseki City), and Kurikoma Sanso, located in Akita Prefecture (Higashinaruse Village)

Both of these establishments draw their water from a hot spring source that gushes forth near Sugawa Kogen Onsen

Sugawa Kogen Onsen boasts a spacious open-air bath and a charming indoor bath, while Kurikoma Sanso is an extremely popular inn where you can enjoy a magnificent panoramic view that includes Mount Chokai

Accommodation rates at Sugawa Kogen Onsen are around 20,000 yen per person, while Kurikoma Sanso is more expensive at around 50,000 yen per person

Please note that both Sugawa Kogen Onsen and Kurikoma Sanso have various access restrictions during the winter months due to snow. Please check when making your reservation

Sugawa Onsen to Naruse Dam

Entering Higashinaruse Village in Akita Prefecture from Sugawa Onsen, the road, which had sections without a center line on the Iwate Prefecture side, improved dramatically

After a pleasant 25-minute drive from Sugawa Onsen, you'll see the Naruse Dam, currently under construction on the Naruse River in the Omono River system, which is the end point of this driving route

A little detour 6: Kurikoma Hermit's Water, which springs forth in the hermit's village

Along National Route 342, in Higashinaruse Village, also known as "Hermit's Village," there is a spring called "Hermit's Water," and I stopped by to try this spring water as well

Senninsui is used in "Tazawako Lakeside Forest Beer" and the local sake "Yukyu no Shizuku," as well as in "Kurikoma Natural Water Beer," which is only available at Kurikoma Sanso

In my personal opinion, the water temperature felt lower than that of "Buna no Megumi" on the Iwate Prefecture side, and it was just as delicious, if not better

Naruse Dam, one of the largest CGS dams in Japan

CGS (Cemented Sand and Gravel) is a dam construction method that uses materials made by mixing local rocks and sand with cement and water, and is expected to be rational, environmentally friendly, low-cost, and shorten construction time

At the Naruse Dam, a plant was constructed just below the dam to produce the materials, and traces of it remain even now that the dam has taken its basic shape

The Naruse Dam is scheduled for completion in fiscal year 2027 (Reiwa 9), and there are no other CGS dams of this scale in Japan. Now is the last chance to see the construction process

Furthermore, the name of the reservoir that will be created after the dam is completed will be decided through a public competition, and the final vote is currently underway among several candidates

summary

As of September 22nd, when we took this drive, the autumn foliage along the road still seemed a long way off, but there were reports that the leaves were changing color earlier than usual near the summit of Mount Kurikoma, a famous spot for autumn leaves

The peak of the autumn foliage along National Route 342 is yet to come, but it might arrive sooner than expected. We recommend checking online information about the autumn foliage before you go

DaiwaConsilio

I'm a former Edoite (Tokyoite) who loves Morioka and the six prefectures of Tohoku, and I'm a big fan of history, gourmet food, travel, sports, alcohol, and choral singing.
I'll introduce you to interesting things, delicious food, and great places in Tohoku!