[Part 1] The Pickling Culture of the Six Tohoku Prefectures to Survive the Harsh Winter | Aomori, Iwate, and Akita Edition

Japan is said to be one of the world's leading countries in the use of fermented foods, and it is no exaggeration to say that its food culture could not exist without the power of fermentation, including soy sauce and miso, which are indispensable seasonings for Japanese cuisine

Amidst all this, pickles are a prime example of traditional side dishes that add color to the dinner table

While its definition is very broad, it can be said that it also has a strong aspect as a preserved food that enhances the flavor of vegetables and seafood by pickling them in salt, miso, soy sauce, rice bran, sake lees, etc., while also enabling long-term storage

These pickles come in a variety of types throughout Japan, each with its own regional characteristics, but the Tohoku region, in particular, presents a rich variety

This practice embodies the wisdom of preserving food to survive the long, harsh winter, and it has a deeply rooted cultural foundation as a part of folklore

In this article, we will introduce examples of pickles and preserved foods from the six prefectures of Tohoku, and also look at the salt-producing regions essential for preservation, as well as some unusual beliefs associated with these areas

For our first installment, let's take a look at the three prefectures of Aomori, Iwate, and Akita

Aomori Prefecture

First up are pickles from Aomori Prefecture, the northernmost point of Honshu

A wide variety of pickles developed as a food source to help people survive the long, harsh winters, and as a source of vitamins during the coldest months when fresh vegetables were difficult to obtain

Here are three of them

Sushiko

Starting off with a curveball, we have a local dish from Aomori called "sushiko," which is rice that has been pickled .

This refers to a unique type of pickle made by combining firm-cooked glutinous rice with salted or aged cucumbers and red perilla leaves, and then allowing it to ferment with lactic acid. It
is known as a local dish from the northwestern part of the Tsugaru region of Aomori Prefecture, an area facing the Sea of ​​Japan.

When thinking of fermented rice preserves, "nare-zushi," considered the prototype of sushi, and "i-zushi" from Tohoku and Hokkaido come to mind, but what makes sushiko unique is that it is a pickle made only from rice and vegetables, without using any seafood

Sushiko is dyed a vibrant pink color from red perilla leaves, and nowadays some recipes also include purple cabbage

While the idea of ​​pickled rice might seem unusual, its pleasant tanginess, derived from lactic acid fermentation, makes it a highly regarded delicacy that can be enjoyed as a side dish or as a snack with drinks

Furthermore, because it uses glutinous rice, which is filling, it is suitable as a meal during farm work, and since it also contains vegetables, it can be seen as a source of nutrition during the winter months, showcasing the wisdom of daily life

Incidentally, examples of pickles using this type of fermented rice are well-known in cold regions such as Tohoku and Hokkaido, but there are also long-standing folk examples such as funazushi from Shiga Prefecture and narezushi from Wakayama Prefecture

Shiso-wrapped plum

One of the local dishes known in the Tsugaru region"shiso-maki ume" (plum wrapped in shiso leaves).

This is an elaborate pickled dish made by pickling red shiso leaves, which have been soaked in plum vinegar, in salt to bring out their vibrant color, wrapping them around pitted pickled plums, and then pickling them in sweet vinegar

As the name suggests, this food has a rich and varied history

First, the origin of shiso-wrapped pickled plums is said to be closely related to the Russo-Japanese War that broke out in 1904. It is believed that the practice began with wrapping soft pickled plums in shiso leaves to prevent them from being crushed during transport, and in modern terms, it could be said that it was developed as a type of combat ration

Another distinctive feature of this pickle is that it uses a slightly different type of plum than usual. In the Tsugaru region, apricots are salted and dried, creating a kind of dried apricot instead of pickled plums, and this is sometimes used in shiso-wrapped dishes

Tohoku Rokken Trivia Media NEFT

Is shiso-wrapped apricot only found in Aomori and Akita prefectures? Here's how to make it and some recipe variations

https://jp.neft.asia/archives/34677

"Shiso-wrapped apricots" were a staple on our dinner table since childhood. However, once you leave Tohoku, opportunities to encounter "shiso-wrapped apricots" suddenly decrease. Upon investigation, it turns out that shiso-wrapped apricots are a regional dish mainly found in the Tohoku region, particularly Aomori and Akita prefectures. Therefore, this article explains why shiso-wrapped apricots are so beloved in Aomori and Akita. We'll also introduce how to make shiso-wrapped apricots and someアレンジ recipes, so please read to the end. What are shiso-wrapped apricots? Left: Ishita "Apricot Shiso-wrapped" Right: Yamachi Foods "Shiso-wrapped Apricot Plum" Shiso-wrapped apricots are a regional dish from Aomori and Akita prefectures...

Furthermore, even though we simply say "plum," in Aomori Prefecture, a cold region, it's common to see the use of the cold-resistant"Bungo plum." This is considered a hybrid of plum and apricot, and is a highly valued ingredient due to its cold resistance, large fruit size, small seeds, and thick flesh.

Tohoku Rokken Trivia Media NEFT

Which is which: the "Yasuke Ume" (a kind of apricot with the word "plum" in its name) or the "Bungo" (a genuine plum)? [Aomori Prefecture]

https://jp.neft.asia/archives/10101

Aomori Prefecture boasts two main specialties: plums and apricots. Their plump, ripe appearance reflects the richness of the local environment. However, in Aomori, there are actually apricots called "ume" (plums) and plums not called "anzu" (plums)... Even locals can be a little confused by the complicated situation surrounding plums and apricots. This article will explore these Aomori specialties, plums and apricots, and some interesting facts about them. We hope this will be an opportunity for you to learn more about the flavors of our region. What is the difference between plums and apricots? First, let's look at the difference between plums and apricots, a difference that seems obvious but is often misunderstood...

Touzuke

"Touzuke" is a local dish mainly found in the Tsugaru region, made using salted shiso seeds .

"Tou" refers to the seeds of the perilla plant, which are harvested from summer to autumn and can be preserved in salt to be used as a seasoning

Tou-zuke is a dish made by combining salted shiso seeds with chopped vegetables such as daikon radish, carrots, cucumbers, eggplants, myoga ginger, shishito peppers, and burdock root, and pickling them in soy sauce or miso

There are many variations in ingredients and seasonings, offering a high degree of freedom, and some recipes even include wild vegetables such as bracken

This is a practical life hack that allows you to preserve summer vegetables that spoil quickly for a long time. You can enjoy them as a side dish, as a snack with drinks or tea, or mixed into rice to make a delicious dish

Iwate Prefecture

Iwate Prefecture is blessed with abundant seafood, and its food culture is characterized by the development of flour-based foods using wheat and other grains due to its cool climate

Furthermore, in the southern part of the prefecture, a unique style of mochi (rice cake) consumption has flourished due to the influence of the Sendai Date family, and it is known as the number one mochi-producing region in Japan

From Iwate Prefecture, let me introduce three distinctive types of pickles

Golden wedding pickles

Iwate Prefecture is said to be one of the top prefectures in Japan for the consumption of pickles and miso. One of the unique pickles that this region is proud of"Kinkozuke" (or "Kinkonzuke").

This dish consists of a white cucumber with the pulp removed, stuffed with thinly sliced ​​burdock root and carrots wrapped in kelp, and then pickled in miso or moromi (fermented soybean paste)

The name is said to have originated either from the fact that it changes to an amber color as it matures, likening it to a couple who have been together for many years and reached their golden wedding anniversary, or because its appearance resembles "kinko," a type of dried sea cucumber that is a luxury item

This pickle is considered a "work of art" because of the beautiful, neatly cut patterns, which are often likened to family crests or flowers. Its auspicious nature also makes it a popular choice for weddings and gifts, making it a delightful treat not only for its taste but also for its visual appeal

One sho pickle

A local dish made by combining green chili peppers, soy sauce, and rice koji in a quantity of one sho (approximately 1.8 liters) is called "issho-zuke."

While it's actually a dish widely found in the Tohoku region, we'll introduce it here as one of Iwate Prefecture's representative dishes

Because it uses one sho each of the ingredients, in a 1:1:1 ratio, for a total of three sho, it is also known as "sansho-zuke" (three-sho pickle ). In Iwate Prefecture, it is sometimes called "koji nanban," and despite its simple recipe, it is a versatile seasoning that can be used for a wide range of purposes.

Iwate Prefecture is said to be a region that particularly loves spicy food, and Issho-zuke boasts high versatility, being used not only as an accompaniment to rice, but also as a snack to lick while drinking alcohol, or as a seasoning for dishes

It's not just about preparing a new batch; sometimes, ingredients are added to and allowed to mature over time. This process not only increases the spiciness but also the mellow umami flavor, which is one of the unique pleasures of fermented foods

This pickled vegetable can be used in a way similar to "chili oil for eating," but in some unusual cases, it's dissolved in ramen soup to add a flavor accent, or served as a condiment with Morioka's famous "Jajamen" noodles

Basho pickled vegetables

Basho-na-zuke is a type of pickled green vegetable that is mainly found in the southern part of Iwate Prefecture and is considered relatively rare in the Tohoku region .

Basho-na is a biennial plant belonging to the Brassicaceae family, and is related to takana (mustard greens). Seeds are sown around September or October, and it is harvested about 40 to 50 days later, before it bolts. However, when fully grown, it is a large vegetable that can reach a height of about 80 cm

Due to its unique spiciness and wild, green flavor, it's difficult to eat raw, but as a pickled vegetable, it retains its texture and can be preserved for a long time, making it an excellent pickled vegetable

While simple seasonings such as salt, soy sauce, and mirin are common for pickles, the refreshing spiciness unique to the rapeseed family stimulates the appetite, and it is said to be often used not only as an accompaniment to rice but also as a snack with tea

Furthermore, its vibrant green color, even after being pickled, is pleasing to the eye, and one can imagine how the green of these pickles must have added color to people's lives during the long winter months of the past

Akita Prefecture

Akita Prefecture is known for its extremely salty salted salmon, "Bodakko," and is one of the regions in the Tohoku area where salted foods are particularly well-developed

Furthermore, among the many types of preserved foods, there are many that are made using unique recipes, and some famous pickles have gained popularity in other regions as well

Here are three of them:

Smoked daikon radish

Akita's"Iburigakko"is arguably one of the most famous local dishes in other regions as well.

It's a type of pickled daikon radish with a smoky aroma, and because it pairs well with cream cheese and wine, many people have probably tried it on the menu at izakayas (Japanese pubs) and other establishments

The distinctive aroma of iburigakko (smoked pickled radish) originally comes from drying it using the heat and smoke of a hearth. This cooking method developed in the inland areas of Akita Prefecture, where heavy snowfall is common in winter and daylight hours are short. It can be described as pickled smoked radish

The "iburi" in "iburigakko" means "smoked," and "gakko" means "pickles." It is made by drying daikon radish over a hearth using heat and smoke, and then pickling it with rice bran and salt

Among the many regional dishes, this pickle has gained a level of recognition that could be described as being nationwide

Nata pickles

"Nata-zuke"is exactly what the name suggests: a local dish made by roughly chopping daikon radish with a thick-bladed machete, the kind used in forestry, and then pickling it in amazake (sweet rice wine).

Of course, it's not that it can only be made with a machete; the rough cut increases the surface area that comes into contact with the seasoning liquid, allowing the flavor to penetrate more easily, and also adds a variation in texture

Peel the daikon radish, roughly chop it, salt it to remove excess moisture, and then pickle it in amazake and sugar for about a week to complete the dish

The natural sweetness derived from koji combined with the freshness of seasonal daikon radish results in a refreshing pickle that is perfect as a snack with tea

Hanazushi

In the southern region of Akita Prefecture, "Hanazushi" is a pickled vegetable that is indispensable for New Year's celebrations and other festive occasions . It is a masterpiece made by slicing a large eggplant horizontally and layering it with glutinous rice, chrysanthemum flowers, and red chili peppers before pickling. The vibrant colors of the eggplant's purple, the chrysanthemum's yellow, and the chili pepper's red create a visually stunning pickled vegetable, making it easy to understand why it is an essential part of celebratory occasions.

Although it's called "sushi" because rice is used in the pickling process, the preparation method could more accurately be described as "eggplant rice sushi."
In the past, it was heavily salted for long-term preservation, but nowadays the seasoning has become milder.

Koroku Taito( History writer and novelist )

- Author of the original text for Seibido Publishing's "Illustrated Dictionary of the Heian Period: A Visual Guide to Enjoying Life. " - Honorable Mention for "The Land of Star Readings" at the 3rd Misato Western Treasury Literary Awards. - Honorable Mention for "Io-san's Bride's Meals" at Everystar's "Delicious Time" competition. - "Swordsman's Communications" at the 9th Historical and Period Novel Grand Prizes, "Exhilarating! Entertainment Swordsman Award" (book publication project in progress). - 5th Dan in Iaido, 4th Dan in Jodo.

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