[Part 2] The Pickling Culture of the Six Tohoku Prefectures to Survive the Harsh Winter | Miyagi, Yamagata, and Fukushima

Our second feature on pickles from the Tohoku regionMiyagi, Yamagata, and Fukushimaprefectures.

Pickles are one of the dishes that clearly reflect regional characteristics, but their history doesn't necessarily go back to ancient times

Let's explore the various potentials hidden within pickles, both as a traditional local food and as a specialty product that is weaving a new history

Miyagi Prefecture

Miyagi Prefecture is known for its abundant fishing grounds and high-quality rice production, and is also a region with a long history of thriving food culture

It is known that Date Masamune, the founder of the Sendai Domain, paid great attention to food, and fermented foods such as Sendai miso, which are now widely known, also developed in the area

From Miyagi Prefecture, we'd like to introduce three types of pickles

Sendai long eggplant pickles

"Sendai Naganasu-zuke"is literally pickled eggplant, but the ingredients used are truly unique.

Sendai Naganasu, or simply Sendai Nasu, is said to have originated in 1593 when soldiers returned from an expedition to the Korean Peninsula. They brought back seeds obtained in Hakata and began cultivating it in their home country

It can be said that this local vegetable has a history of more than 430 years, and the "Ou Kanseki Monroshi," a local history of the Sendai domain from the early 18th century, notes that the Sendai long eggplants grown in the lower reaches of the Hirose River were of good quality

Sendai Naganasu pickles have a simple seasoning of salt and soy sauce, but this early-maturing variety has thin skin, making it ideal for pickling, resulting in an exquisite product that allows you to fully enjoy the deliciousness of the eggplant itself

Sendai pickled cabbage

"Sendai Chinese cabbage pickles"are, as the name suggests, pickles made with local Sendai vegetables, but they are actually a regional dish that was created in modern times.

This is because the now-common head-forming type of Chinese cabbage only began to be cultivated on a large scale during the Meiji era, and it is said that it wasn't until the Taisho era that it became widely distributed throughout the country

Although both non-heading and heading varieties of Chinese cabbage existed before, they were said to have been very difficult to establish as distinct species because they would naturally cross-pollinate with other Brassicaceae plants

It was Kichibei Numakura and Kojiro Sugano of Miyagi Prefecture who first succeeded in the stable cultivation of head cabbage during the late Meiji and Taisho periods. They achieved this through isolated cultivation on Umahojima Island in Matsushima Bay.
This was therefore called "Matsushima cabbage," and eventually, including its derivative varieties, it came to be distributed throughout Japan as "Sendai cabbage."

However, Sendai cabbage temporarily declined due to competition from later varieties developed through subsequent breeding. But the 2011 Great East Japan Earthquake damaged farmland, leading to a re-evaluation of Sendai cabbage, which is resistant to salt damage

While Sendai pickled cabbage often refers to a simple preparation method using almost only salt for natural lactic acid fermentation, this particular variety, with its tender leaves and rich flavor, is truly perfect for pickling. It's
nice to savor this small plate of pickles while reflecting on the history hidden within.

Nanban miso pickles

"Nanban Miso-zuke"or simply"Nanban Miso"is a regional dish from the Tohoku region of Japan, made by mixing chopped green chili peppers with miso paste.

In Sendai, it is often served with the famous grilled beef tongue, and is valued not only as a side dish or accompaniment to alcoholic beverages, but also as a condiment that adds variety to the flavor of dishes

Although this section introduces a dish from Miyagi Prefecture, similar dishes are widely distributed throughout the Tohoku region, and the "Issho-zuke (Sansho-zuke)" featured in the Iwate Prefecture section also uses green chili peppers

Nanban miso pickles are characterized by their use of miso, and their sweet and spicy seasoning, along with the pungent kick of green chili peppers, stimulates the appetite, making them a versatile side dish that can be enjoyed in any situation.
Depending on the recipe, chopped cucumbers may also be mixed in, making it a preserved food that allows you to enjoy the compatibility of summer vegetables with miso.

Yamagata Prefecture

Yamagata Prefecture boasts a wide variety of traditional vegetables and abundant fruits, as well as a rich and diverse range of noodle dishes, making it one of Japan's leading culinary centers

Furthermore, due to the long periods of being isolated by deep snow, various methods of preserving food have been devised, and unique recipes for pickles have been created

From Yamagata Prefecture, we've picked out three particularly memorable types of pickles

Omizuke

"Omi-zuke"is a type of pickled vegetable"Yamagata Seisai,"which is seasoned with soy sauce and coarse sugar, and sometimes other ingredients such as pickled daikon radish, carrots, Jerusalem artichokes, and perilla seeds are added.

Yamagata green vegetables were introduced to Japan from seeds brought from China in the latter half of the Meiji era, and large-scale cultivation became established in the early Taisho era

There are several theories about the origin of the unusual name "Omi-zuke," including the idea that it was developed by a merchant from Omi Province, or that it is a corruption of "Momi-zuke," referring to the process of kneading chopped ingredients together

Originally, it wasn't strictly necessary to use Yamagata green vegetables; it's a local dish rooted in practical wisdom, where any leftover vegetables are chopped up and eaten without waste

Pesora pickles

"Pesora-zuke,"a dish with a rather cute-sounding name, is a type of pickled eggplant that originated in Oishida Town, which belongs to Kitamurayama District in eastern Yamagata Prefecture.

This pickle goes through a unique process where eggplants are soaked in water to remove their color, and then pickled in salt and chili peppers. The result is a pickle with a pale color and a distinctive balance of spiciness and sourness

In the northern Yamagata dialect, "pesora" apparently means "simple" or "unpretentious," but in Oishida Town, where it originated, it carries the nuance of "something that has become soft after soaking up water." It is also known as "pechora-zuke," which may better evoke the image of the eggplant's soft texture

Adjacent to Oishida Town is Obanazawa City in Yamagata Prefecture, famous for its watermelons , where you can find "watermelon pesora (pechora) pickles," a relatively new product that was first sold in 2002

Tohoku Rokken Trivia Media NEFT

Pickle the whole watermelon! Local pickle "Watermelon Pesora (Pechora) Pickled" [Yamagata Prefecture]

https://jp.neft.asia/archives/14981

With summer in full swing, it's the season for delicious watermelons! Did you know that Yamagata Prefecture, which boasts the third-largest watermelon production in Japan (*), has a pickle made by pickling whole watermelons, rind and all? This time, we'll introduce Yamagata's local pickle, "Suika no Pesora (Pechora) Zuke." *Data: Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries, "Crop Statistics Survey, Crop Condition Survey (Vegetables)," 2020 harvest. What is Suika no Pesora (Pechora) Zuke? Suika no Pesora (Pechora) Zuke is a relatively new pickle, first sold in 2002 in Obanazawa City, Yamagata Prefecture, a famous watermelon producing area. It was created to avoid wasting watermelons...

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Snow cabbage pickles

Among the pickles traditionally made in Yamagata Prefecture, one particularly unusual is "Yukina no Fusube-zuke" (pickled snow greens)

Yukina is a type of blanched vegetable that originates from the Okitama region of Yamagata Prefecture. It is a rare local vegetable that grows in the snow and is sometimes called a "phantom" vegetable

This vegetable is believed to have been created through crossbreeding with "Nagaoka greens," which were brought from Echigo Province, and was encouraged to be cultivated by Uesugi Yozan, a renowned lord of the mid-Edo period

The edible part is the flower stalk (tou), which resembles a long, slender cabbage leaf similar to celery. This made it a valuable food source during the winter months when fresh vegetables were difficult to obtain

Furthermore, "fusube" means to quickly blanch, and the cooking method is simple: briefly immerse in boiling water about three times, then cool in cold water, and finally pickle with only salt

After pickling for about three days, it develops a unique spiciness and becomes ready to eat, its refreshing kick adding a touch of elegance to the dinner tables of northern Japan

Fukushima Prefecture

Fukushima Prefecture experiences cold, strong seasonal winds, typified by the Azuma-oroshi, during winter, and the region has a history of developing methods for preserving food by taking advantage of the cold climate

As a way to withstand the cold and survive the long winter, various types of preserved foods and pickles were devised, and many of these recipes remain popular and beloved today

Below are three examples of famous preserved foods and pickles from Fukushima Prefecture

Squid and carrots

"Ika Ninjin," a famous local dish from Fukushima , is, as the name suggests, a preserved food made by finely chopping dried squid and carrots and pickling them in sauce.

The seasoning liquid is simple, made by boiling soy sauce, sake, and granulated sugar, but the umami released from the squid and carrots adds to the flavor, creating an addictive taste that makes you want to eat more and more rice, and it has become very popular

It is a type of pickled food that is preserved during the winter months, and it is also a dish that is cherished as an auspicious item that is indispensable for New Year's celebrations

While it may share some similarities with Matsumae-zuke from Hokkaido, the defining characteristic of Ika Ninjin is that it generally does not contain kelp

Sangohatzuke

"Sagohachi-zuke"is a type of pickle that uses salt, rice koji, and cooked rice as the pickling base. One theory suggests that the name comes from the fact that the ratio of these ingredients is 3:5:8.

While there are theories suggesting other ratios, such as 1:1:1, it is widely known as a simple type of koji pickle

This preserved food mainly uses summer vegetables from the Tohoku region such as eggplant, cucumber, carrot, and turnip, and the natural, gentle sweetness derived from rice and koji is transferred to the ingredients, resulting in an elegant flavor

Incidentally, this San-Go-Hachi pickling base can be used not only for vegetables, but also for pickling meat and fish to enhance their flavor, similar to how salt koji can be used

Tateiwa turnip pickles

Among the traditional vegetables of Fukushima Prefecture, "Tateiwa turnip" is cultivated mainly in the Tateiwa district of Minamiaizu Town .

This local vegetable is said to have a history of over 300 years, and its unique red color, cultivated using slash-and-burn farming methods, is said to only appear when grown in the Tateiwa region

When this is pickled, it becomes "Tateiwa Turnip Pickles," which are often seasoned with sweet vinegar and have a vibrant pink color that is visually appealing

Tateiwa turnips grow in this region, a plateau area at an altitude of 600 to 1,000 meters, and their seeds are kept strictly within the family. Therefore, pickles made from them can truly be considered a rare local dish

Koroku Taito( History writer and novelist )

- Author of the original text for Seibido Publishing's "Illustrated Dictionary of the Heian Period: A Visual Guide to Enjoying Life. " - Honorable Mention for "The Land of Star Readings" at the 3rd Misato Western Treasury Literary Awards. - Honorable Mention for "Io-san's Bride's Meals" at Everystar's "Delicious Time" competition. - "Swordsman's Communications" at the 9th Historical and Period Novel Grand Prizes, "Exhilarating! Entertainment Swordsman Award" (book publication project in progress). - 5th Dan in Iaido, 4th Dan in Jodo.

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